Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday exhibited a plethora of styles, ranging from the bold prints and intricate details of Dries Van Noten to the understated and sleek minimalism of The Row, and the refined elegance of Nehera. These three designers showcased their unique visions, catering to the varied tastes of women in the fashion industry.
Dries Van Noten, renowned for his imaginative designs, surprised the audience by staging his show inside a famous geodesic dome in south Paris, a venue typically reserved for concerts. This unconventional setting perfectly complemented his latest collection, which featured faux-vintage fabrics and intricate embellishments. Models gracefully descended from the top of the theater, strutting down five levels of catwalks visible through a giant acrylic mirror on stage. The collection seamlessly blended masculine elements like chalk stripes and double-breasted blazers with feminine touches such as chiffon dresses and delicate embroidery. Each garment exuded a deliberate sense of disarray, creating a mesmerizing and enchanting atmosphere on the runway.
Additionally, Dries Van Noten emphasized the significance of fabric restoration in his collection, aiming to imbue the garments with a vintage quality even though they were crafted from new fabrics. According to Van Noten, clothes become a part of one’s personality, and ceasing to wear them results in losing a piece of that personality. The collection showcased hand-painted woven fabrics, gold-dipped coats, and handwoven devoré silk dresses, adorned with exquisite embroideries and intricate details. Belgian drummer Lander provided the show’s otherworldly soundtrack, mirroring the connection between the clothes and the individuals who wear them.
Meanwhile, The Row, founded by Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, exhibited their signature minimalist aesthetic in a Parisian mansion near Place de la Concorde. The collection, titled The Row AW23 Pure, exemplified the brand’s commitment to pared-down elegance. Free from prints, the garments were crafted from luxurious cashmere and showcased grand draping. Coats gracefully swirled around the models, while blankets were nonchalantly draped over their shoulders. Over time, these layers intertwined, resulting in a harmonious fusion. The elongated coats, with wide shoulders and low waistlines, gracefully grazed the marble floor of the mansion’s upper landing. Transparent slippers and gents moccasins anchored the looks, adding a touch of transparency and masculinity. The collection also featured a trio of linear, off-the-shoulder dresses paired with knotted Doges hats, introducing romantic and nocturnal elements to the otherwise refined and monochromatic palette.
Nehera, an independent Slovak brand, presented a unique take on monochromatic fashion and tailoring. Originating in the 1930s in Prague but revived in 2014, Nehera champions functional comfort. Their designs feature forgivingly oversized pants, billowing shirts with large pockets, and loosely draped blazers. The attention to detail is evident in the gray flannel shirt jackets, with buttoned patch pockets slightly offset from the shirt, and the elegant blazer/dresses in midnight black, casually tied at the waist. The craftsmanship behind the collection is particularly noteworthy, with each piece meticulously made by artisans in Prostejov, the apparel manufacturing center of Czechoslovakia. Nehera’s philosophy revolves around simplicity and enhancing the body’s natural rhythm, perfectly reflected in their designs.
Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday showcased the diversity and talent of these three designers: Dries Van Noten with his faux-vintage elegance, The Row with its pure and minimalistic approach, and Nehera with its focus on comfort and refined tailoring. Each collection offered a distinct perspective on fashion, captivating the audience and leaving a lasting impression on the industry. As fashion week continued, Paris remained at the forefront of innovation and creativity, setting the stage for the next wave of trends and influences in the fashion world.
Useful Links:
Vogue – Autumn/Winter 2023 Ready-to-Wear Shows
Paris Fashion Week – Official Website
