New York Fashion Week recently captivated the fashion world with its display of independent designers, including Puppets and Puppets, Willy Chavarria, and Luar, who all brought their distinct perspectives to the runway. Each designer showcased their unique visions, resulting in collections that represented their individual inspirations and influences.
Puppets and Puppets, led by designer Carly Mark, presented their collection in a fittingly unconventional setting – the gymnasium of the Immaculate Conception church’s former school. Mark’s designs drew inspiration from her personal experiences as a New York woman, encapsulating the haunting memories and emotions of the pandemic years. The collection incorporated a fusion of sporty and glamorous elements, with exaggerated pants featuring side pockets reminiscent of 18th-century pannier skirts. Mark’s designs also incorporated asymmetry, silver sequins, intricate draping techniques, brocade, and embellishments. The collection had a touch of nostalgia, referencing turn-of-the-century photography depicting seances and adding a haunting allure. Notably, the use of AI-generated prints demonstrated Puppets and Puppets’ innovative and organic approach to design.
Willy Chavarria, known for his exploration of cultural references and his Chicano heritage, showcased a collection that deeply connected with his identity as a designer. Chavarria’s palette predominantly featured white and khaki, a departure from his previous all-black collections. He drew inspiration from various time periods, including the 20s, 30s, 40s, and 60s, as well as incorporating futuristic elements. Tailored looks with strong shoulders, double-breasted jackets, and voluminous pants and shorts dominated the collection. Chavarria symbolically incorporated references to Machismo, a concept rooted in Mexican culture, by adorning Pachuco fedora-style hats with oversized red satin roses. The collection blurred gender boundaries, aiming to create non-binary clothing. Chavarria also showcased his take on streetwear, with mesh and track styles playfully embellished with logo treatments. However, the show experienced some production issues that slightly diminished its overall impact.
Raul Lopez’s brand Luar emerged as the final show of New York Fashion Week, generating immense excitement among his dedicated fan base. Following his show, Lopez received nominations in two categories from the CFDA, cementing his status as an established designer. The show took place in industrial Bushwick, Brooklyn, and delved into the dichotomy of religion and hedonism through the metaphorical lens of El Hoyo, or the Hole. Lopez contemplated his roots as his success in the fashion industry grows. The collection boasted strong shoulders, cracked leather as a symbolic homage to the walls of El Hoyo, and a mix of both revealing and modest designs. Lopez played with the concept of revealing and modesty by incorporating peek-a-boo hemlines, cutaway bodices with strappy details, and skirts that could be buttoned up or left unbuttoned. Additionally, the collection showcased tailored looks and elegant eveningwear options, embellished with beaded details and floor-length outerwear made from pleather or vinyl.
In conclusion, New York Fashion Week offered a diverse range of designers who showcased their unique visions and perspectives. Puppets and Puppets, Willy Chavarria, and Luar brought thought-provoking collections that merged art, culture, and personal experiences into wearable works of art. These designers serve as a testament to the boundless creativity and diversity present in the New York fashion scene.
To learn more about Puppets and Puppets, visit their website here.
For further information on Willy Chavarria, explore his portfolio here.
