New York Fashion Week concluded on Sunday, ending a five-and-a-half-day extravaganza that coincided with the 20th anniversary of 9/11. Amidst the flurry of runway shows and presentations, three designers managed to stand out as true trailblazers: Anna Sui, Thom Browne, and Tory Burch. What tied these designers together was their shared embrace of demure fantasy, creating collections that transported the audience to realms of whimsy, artifice, and elegance.
Anna Sui, renowned for her whimsical and playful designs, named her latest collection “Another Day in Paradise.” This Spring/Summer 2022 collection unveiled at Indochine lived up to its name, offering a vibrant and joyful escape for fashion enthusiasts. Sui drew inspiration from a variety of sources, including Trader Vic’s bar signs, Tahiti, Honolulu masks, and Niki de Saint Phalle catalogues. The runway was ablaze with blushing pink bikinis paired with Chanel-style jackets adorned in Verner Panton patterns, and topped with oversized tulip-shaped straw hats. Coral chenille cardigans, lime green lace dresses, and crocheted uptown hippie tops added to the whimsical mix. Decorative sporty bras and bloomers, a trend seen across several collections this season, made an appearance as well. Anna Sui’s saccharine aesthetic struck the perfect balance between fantasy and wearability, transporting the audience to a sunny paradise.
Thom Browne, on the other hand, offered a runway show that served as an art installation. Browne’s show was a spectacle of artifice, featuring a giant house frame set in a formal French garden. Feathered spirits and harpies guarded the scene, while models cycled around on vintage-style penny farthings or walked dramatically in trompe-l’oeil designs. Browne’s expertise in creating impeccably tailored clothing was evident in the sleeveless Edwardian topcoats and layered safari jackets. However, his expansion into dress-making fell short in terms of innovation. The elaborate presentation seemed to overshadow the lack of new ideas in the garments themselves. It might be time for Browne to shift gears and explore new avenues for his creativity, perhaps even considering a foray into feature film directing.
Tory Burch chose a different approach, opting for a show that showcased a haute bohemian vibe on the cobblestone streets of Soho. Models strutted down Mercer Street, surrounded by bookstands, vegetable stalls, and antique sellers, creating a lively atmosphere. The collection featured flouncy ankle-length skirts, crinkly plissé tops, and oversized mannish pants made from sustainable materials like hemp, cotton, and double chalk stripes. Lonsdale belts added structure to multiple looks, while utilitarian yet stylish bags complemented the ensembles. The show reached its peak with a captivating performance by dancer Lil Buck, accompanied by a snare drummer. Tory Burch redefined elegance by embracing a covered-up aesthetic, proving that one can be both modest and effortlessly fashionable. This inclusive and chic approach left a lasting impression.
As New York Fashion Week comes to an end, these three designers have certainly made their mark with their unique interpretations of demure fantasy. Anna Sui’s collection transported us to a paradise of vibrant colors and whimsy, while Thom Browne’s show captivated with its artifice and grandiosity. Tory Burch succeeded in redefining elegance by showcasing a covered-up aesthetic with undeniable charm. The closing of New York Fashion Week only signals the beginning of the next wave of creativity and inspiration, leaving fashion enthusiasts eagerly anticipating what lies ahead in the fashion calendar.
(Links:
New York Times Fashion Section,
Vogue Fashion Section)
