The year 2022 witnessed a significant shift in the fashion industry as many luxury brands underwent transitions and appointed new creative directors. One such major change occurred at Gucci, a flagship brand of Kering, as Alessandro Michele bid farewell after seven years as their star designer. This departure not only signifies a profound change within Gucci but also marks a new chapter for the fashion industry as it adapts to the post-pandemic phase.
As we venture into 2023, the fashion world brims with anticipation for what lies ahead. British designer Louise Trotter recently announced her departure from Lacoste after four years of exceptional service. Lacoste, in turn, will now rely on a collaborative studio comprising several designers. Another revolution took place at Burberry, which replaced Riccardo Tisci with Daniel Lee, the former Bottega Veneta designer. Lee’s debut collection for Burberry on February 20 is expected to be a highlight of the Fall/Winter 2023-24 season.
Unlike Burberry and Lacoste, Gucci has yet to select a successor for Alessandro Michele. Consequently, their upcoming menswear collection will be closely scrutinized, particularly since Gucci will be opening Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week on January 13, marking their return to the menswear runways after three years. Speculation surrounds the potential appointment of an internal designer for this critical show, with names like Remo Macco, the recently appointed studio director, and Marco Maria Lombardi, the design director for women’s ready-to-wear, being rumored as potential candidates.
Shifting our focus to men’s fashion, all eyes should also be on Jacopo Politi, the new head of style at Borsalino, as he unveils his first collection for the renowned Italian hat-maker at the Pitti Uomo show in Florence. Additionally, the debut of Marco De Vincenzo, Etro’s new creative director, is highly anticipated as he showcases his first men’s collection for the Milanese label on January 15. Another label worth noting is Corneliani, as British designer Paul Surridge’s rejuvenation efforts will be showcased in a new collection at Milan Fashion Week.
While Paris has not witnessed major changes on the designer front, the women’s fashion weeks in February will witness several labels showcasing their repositioning after changing their creative directors last year. Andrea Incontri at Benetton, Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, and Filippo Grazioli at Missoni will present their work for a second season in Milan, while Ibrahim Kamara will do so for Off-White in Paris.
March will bring forth two major debuts at Paris Fashion Week Women. The first is Harris Reed, a young Anglo-American designer recently appointed as the creative director of Parisian label Nina Ricci. Known for their distinct identity and gender-fluid creations, Reed’s debut is highly anticipated. The second debut is French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin at Ann Demeulemeester. As the creative director of the ready-to-wear label, de Saint Sernin is renowned for his sensual style and uninhibited eroticism.
As we embark on this new year, the fashion industry stands poised for change and innovation. With new creative directors assuming leadership roles at luxury labels and upcoming debuts from rising talents, 2023 holds the promise of discovery and surprises in the world of fashion.
Useful links:
– Vogue – New Designers to Watch in 2023
– Harper’s Bazaar – Designer Revolutions That Changed Fashion
