The Milan menswear season started off with a bang, showcasing captivating shows by DSquared2, Neil Barrett, and Kiton. This event coincided with Italian premier Mario Draghi expressing his support for Ukraine’s inclusion in the European Union, signifying a significant shift in Italy’s foreign policy towards the former Soviet Union. This change is particularly noteworthy considering the strong ties the luxury industry has had with Russia and its satellite countries. Italian fashion houses have previously supplied numerous franchise stores in these markets, but this relationship has now been disrupted.
Despite the scorching heat in Milan, attendees at the shows were spotted wearing shorts, while the models confidently displayed party-ready attire. DSquared2, renowned for its bold and energetic designs, presented acid-dyed denim and beachcomber fantasies, creating an atmosphere of carefree fun. On the other hand, Neil Barrett embraced an active-chic vibe, incorporating contemporary fabrics and revamps inspired by the 90s. In contrast, Kiton opted for understated elegance and placed a strong emphasis on tailoring. This shift towards tailored clothing aligns with predictions made by Italian apparel executives about the future direction of the industry.
DSquared2’s collection exuded a vibrant and devil-may-care attitude. Models confidently strutted down the runway wearing patchwork paisley print sarongs, beachcomber-style outfits, and distressed jackets. The brand’s design duo, Dean and Dan Caten, are known for their eclectic approach, and this collection was no exception. DSquared2’s message was crystal clear – embrace life and celebrate every moment, especially now as the world transitions from the pandemic.
Meanwhile, Kiton presented a softer and more relaxed take on tailoring. Renowned for their unparalleled craftsmanship, the brand unveiled a collection that radiated elegance and sophistication. Suits crafted from herringbone cashmere and fresh wool, paired with white-rimmed sneakers and loafers, exemplified Kiton’s signature style. However, the brand has faced challenges due to international politics, particularly the EU’s embargo policy on Russia. Consequently, Kiton has had to halt the supply of franchise stores in Moscow.
Neil Barrett, a seasoned presence in the menswear industry, continued to push boundaries with his collection titled ‘Urban Oasis’. Departing from the traditional runway shows, Barrett presented his collection through a mesmerizing video projection held at his headquarters. The collection showcased natty perforated neoprene blousons, grommeted surgeon tops, and translucent layering, highlighting Barrett’s innovative edge. His redingotes with mirror sides made a grand entrance and flattered the wearer. Barrett’s ability to reinvent himself and stay current in the ever-evolving fashion industry is a testament to his talent and visionary approach.
Overall, Milan’s menswear season commenced with a diverse range of collections that encapsulated the essence of Italian fashion. From DSquared2’s vivacious celebration of life to Kiton’s refined tailoring and Neil Barrett’s youthful reinvention, each brand offered a distinctive perspective on menswear. As the fashion industry continues to evolve, these collections set the tone for the future of menswear, showcasing the creativity and craftsmanship that Milan is renowned for.
Useful links:
1. Vogue: Milan Menswear Spring/Summer 2022 Trends
2. Business of Fashion: 5 Key Menswear Trends from Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022
