Milan Fashion Week began with a bang as Tod’s and Missoni took the stage to present their latest collections. The stark contrast between the two iconic Italian fashion houses left a lasting impression on the audience. While Tod’s showcased its innovative designs and masterful use of technical fabrics, Missoni struggled to find its footing under its new creative director.
Walter Chiapponi, the brilliant mind guiding Tod’s creative direction, effortlessly mesmerized the crowd with a collection that exuded both coolness and credibility. Chiapponi ingeniously combined bubble fabrics, polyamides, advanced nylons, and Tod’s signature leathers, resulting in a collection that appeared effortlessly natural. The mood was sleek and refined, featuring practical yet polished designs with shorter lengths. Standout pieces included a padded nylon dress with a delicately scalloped neckline, parkas made from treated cotton matelassé, sleeveless cocktail dresses, and a jute coat dress adorned with diagonal pockets. Furthermore, Chiapponi revolutionized Tod’s approach to leather by incorporating their iconic gommino rubber studded leather in pieces such as an elegant ecru leather fencing jacket and a daring black deerskin bustier cocktail dress. The collection was completed with eye-catching details like a beige paneled crochet dress and bubble-wrap windcheaters. Models strutted down the runway wearing natty techy nylon boxing boots, dense crepe-soled platforms embellished with ‘T Timeless’ buckles, and striking power sandals featuring oversized gommino studs. As the show concluded, the entire cast paraded into a sun-drenched garden to a thunderous applause, solidifying Tod’s victory with this remarkable collection.
In stark contrast, Missoni struggled to establish its identity under its new creative director, Alberto Caliri. Once revered for its earthy, family-owned, and craft-driven knitwear, Missoni now seemed to emulate a generic high street label. After selling a minority stake to investment group FSI, the brand underwent rapid changes, including the appointment of Caliri as the designer. The collection aimed to inject more sex appeal into the brand but fell short, resulting in an overly forced and vulgar display. Designs ranged from diagonal chenille cocktails with untidy hems to micro crochet bikinis; all lacking the class and sophistication Missoni was once renowned for. Even coordinated looks, including a silvery blue gown with a daring cut down the back, failed to redeem the collection. Furthermore, the excessive use of the brash brown and black Missoni logo in designs, such as a belt-like bra, further detracted from the overall aesthetic. The show was marred by a late start and an ill-fitting soundtrack, causing dissatisfied audience members to leave before the show’s conclusion.
Ultimately, Tod’s emerged triumphant with its exceptional collection, showcasing the brand’s evolution under Chiapponi’s leadership. Conversely, Missoni’s first show under Caliri’s direction fell short of expectations, losing the brand’s essence and sophistication. Fashion enthusiasts eagerly anticipate future collections from both houses, hoping to witness Tod’s continued success and Missoni’s potential resurgence as a leader in Italian knitwear.
To learn more about Milan Fashion Week and the latest trends in Italian fashion, check out these useful links:
1. Vogue – Milan Fashion Week
2. Business of Fashion
