During Milan Fashion Week, the fashion industry was treated to a display of creativity beyond the traditional runway shows. We had the pleasure of catching up with three young designers who are taking fashion to new heights. One of these remarkable designers is Veronica Leoni, the mastermind behind Quira.
Inspired by her grandmother, Quirina, Leoni boasts an impressive fashion background, having held roles as head knitwear designer for Jil Sander and pre-collection head of Celine under Phoebe Philo. However, it is her unique vision and undeniable talent that truly make her stand out. The debut collection of Quira was presented in a non-traditional showroom, and it left a lasting impression.
Quira embraces sculptural shapes with an air of nonchalance. From oversized wool scarves transformed into skirts to punk-inspired layers made from twisted check shirts, Leoni’s designs are unconventional and attention-grabbing. One particular standout is a liquid silver sheath dress that drapes elegantly, reminiscent of the iconic gowns worn by Isadora Duncan. The collection emanates a sense of primitive beauty, showcasing Leoni’s dedication to creating something deeply personal.
What sets Quira apart from other brands is its exceptional craftsmanship and use of high-quality Italian fabrics. Despite the voluminous shapes, the garments maintain a sense of lightness and fluidity. Leoni’s attention to detail and tactile approach to design are evident in every piece.
Furthermore, Quira offers complementary accessories that perfectly complement the clothing. From artistic clog boots to soft mid-sized totes, these accessories add an extra layer of uniqueness to the collection. Leoni even delved into menswear for the first time, challenging traditional gender norms and embracing a broader perspective on fashion.
The fashion world has been buzzing with speculation about who would succeed Phoebe Philo since her departure. However, it appears that the industry need not look any further than Rome, where Veronica Leoni and her brand Quira are making waves.
Another designer making an impact in Milan is Carolina Castiglioni, the driving force behind Plan C. Castiglioni holds a deep affection for Tokyo, and her latest endeavor involved a collaboration with the magazine and art group Perimetro. The special edition, titled “Tokyo and its Contemporary Storytellers,” showcases a collection of photographs that capture the spirit of the vibrant city.
Displayed in a gallery in Milan, these images capture various aspects of Tokyo, from ancient barbershops to eccentric cityscapes. Castiglioni’s love for the city and her ability to find inspiration in its unique angles are evident in the collection. Alongside the photographs, Plan C produced limited-edition T-shirts featuring fabric reproductions of the Tokyo images, blurring the lines between art and fashion.
The exhibition not only featured photographs but also included a selection of everyday Japanese products, further emphasizing Plan C’s eclectic approach. From curling shears to teapots, these products added a sense of novelty and playfulness to the showcase.
Lastly, Arthur Arbesser showcased his creativity and innovation through a distinct pop-up gallery show called “Arthur Arbesser Casa.” Situated on Via Della Spiga, the pop-up functioned as a showroom and gallery, displaying not only Arbesser’s latest collection but also various recycled works and home objects.
Arbesser’s collection evokes childlike innocence, featuring long silhouettes, boxy shirts, and quirky checkered frocks. The use of papery Japanese poplin and techy nylons brings a contemporary twist to the garments. A highlight of the collection is the hand-painted bucolic garden motifs on patchwork check prints, paired with crocheted straw bullfighters’ caps.
Arbesser’s whimsical and carefree approach to design permeates both the collection and the pop-up gallery. By repurposing everyday objects and incorporating them into his designs, Arbesser showcases his commitment to sustainability and creativity.
Ultimately, these three designers are pushing boundaries and forging unique paths in the fashion industry. From Veronica Leoni’s sculptural and nonchalant designs to Carolina Castiglioni’s exploration of Tokyo’s multifaceted nature and Arthur Arbesser’s whimsical and innovative approach, it is clear that Milan is bursting with talent and creativity. These designers are redefining traditional fashion shows and proving that true artistry can be discovered in the most unexpected places.
Useful links:
1. Vogue Italia: Vogue Italia provides insightful coverage of the fashion industry, showcasing the latest trends, designers, and events.
2. Business of Fashion: Business of Fashion is a leading platform for fashion news, analysis, and insights, providing a comprehensive look at the industry’s inner workings.
