The latest Milan Fashion Week has seen a wave of fresh and promising talent from the next generation of Italian designers. Under the guidance of the Camera nazionale della moda italiana (Italian Fashion Chamber), emerging labels are given the opportunity to present their collections and make a statement in the highly prestigious event. Among the standout designers over the weekend were Magliano, JordanLuca, and Federico Cina.
Magliano once again impressed the audience with a show that effortlessly blended poetry and everyday life. The collection showcased the label’s unique style of slightly outdated elegance, featuring oversized blazers and roomy trousers. Designer Luca Magliano drew inspiration from gay Italian poet Sandro Penna and the vibrant characters found in Italy’s metropolitan suburbia. The collection emanated a transgressive elegance, using a dark and desert-like color palette with ashen hues and distressed effects. Silk and organza were incorporated into the jackets, while the label’s impeccable craftsmanship was seen in the ultra-fine knitwear and cable-knit sweaters. Magliano’s reach has expanded significantly, with 30 retailers now carrying their collections, particularly women’s wear stores, half of their sales coming from Asia.
JordanLuca, an Anglo-Italian street couture label founded by Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto, also made a lasting impression with their highly creative collection. Punk influences were apparent in their designs, such as metallic scarf-garlands and spider web tops. The duo explored the theme of fatal attraction through introspection of the human psyche. Various individuals from around the world were invited to create their own style using JordanLuca’s wardrobe. Key pieces included the longline, flared “bird’s leg” trousers and the jersey kilt reminiscent of jogging shorts. Wool jackets and performance tops were reimagined with innovative details like unexpected zips, adding an edgy touch to the collection.
Federico Cina, a designer deeply connected to the landscapes of Emilia-Romagna in central Italy, embarked on a psychological journey for his collection. Drawing inspiration from the salt works in Cervia, the garments appeared to be bleached by the sun and weathered by salt. Models with traces of salt and sand in their hair presented clothes made from organic fabrics and natural dyes. Raw edges and frayed textures enhanced the relaxed yet impactful aesthetic. Standout pieces included a white trench coat/dressing gown, white denim jacket, and a linen suit tied with a macramé belt. The knitwear in earthy tones like beige and orange was particularly alluring. This season, Cina focused on womenswear, creating sensual body-hugging silhouettes.
Undoubtedly, the next generation of Italian designers is leaving their mark on the fashion industry. Magliano, JordanLuca, and Federico Cina showcased their unique visions and exceptional craftsmanship at Milan Fashion Week. As a platform for emerging talent, this event solidifies their positions in the spotlight. With increasing recognition and expanding global reach, it is evident that the future of Italian fashion is bright and secure.
Useful links:
1. Camera nazionale della moda italiana (CNMI)
2. Milan Fashion Week
