Milan Fashion Week is currently buzzing with a fresh wave of energy and innovation, thanks to a new generation of young designers who have taken charge at iconic fashion houses. The appointment of five new creative directors, including Filippo Grazioli and Rhuigi Villaseñor, to brands like Salvatore Ferragamo, Etro, Benetton, and Missoni has brought a sense of excitement and anticipation to the runways.
Filippo Grazioli, with his wealth of experience working with renowned fashion houses in Paris, has embarked on revamping the beloved brand Missoni. Having worked with the likes of Martin Margiela, Hermès, and Givenchy for 18 years, Grazioli joined Missoni discreetly last year. For his debut show, Grazioli embraced the label’s established codes and infused them with his unique touch. The runway was set at the luminous hall of Bocconi University, featuring a mirrored catwalk that reflected the graceful silhouettes of the collection. The overall vibe of the collection was summery and colorful, exuding a sense of playfulness.
Missoni’s iconic black and white flamed knitwear appeared at the start of the show, showcasing a mix and match of stripes and zebra stripes. The collision of stripes created abstract graphic paintings, while the brand’s signature zigzag patterns were reimagined in larger sizes or in a kaleidoscopic explosion of colors. Grazioli gradually introduced cyan, magenta, and yellow, infusing the collection with a vibrant and playful touch. The collection featured cardigans, knitted bodysuits, tight dresses with geometric patterns, draped versions, and slit dresses. Transparency and shine were also incorporated into the designs, with impalpable knit dresses resembling a second skin.
On the other hand, Rhuigi Villaseñor took on the challenge of infusing an urban and industrial aesthetic into the esteemed Swiss shoe house, Bally. Villaseñor, the founder of high-end streetwear brand Rhude, made his foray into women’s ready-to-wear with Bally’s first show in 21 years. The collection showcased a sophisticated and sensual woman who relishes being noticed. Ultra-tight dresses with strategic slits, rhinestone fishnet stockings, and silk pajama sets exuded elegance and glamour. Equestrian-inspired outfits paired with python boots added a touch of refinement, while a metallic gold jacket and sinuous black evening gown brought a bold element to the mix. Leather pieces, including tops, pant sets, shirt dresses, and lace maxi coats, made a significant impact in the collection. Villaseñor also introduced beachwear for the first time at Bally, featuring low-cut one-piece swimsuits worn with eye-catching jewelry.
Villaseñor’s distinct Californian glamor and coolness injected a refreshing energy into the heritage brand. The designer himself effortlessly transitioned from a double-breasted blazer suit to jeans and a reptile skin jacket, always accompanied by chic slippers and an elegant Bally coat. However, the show encountered a minor hiccup with the inclusion of sandals featuring vertiginous and unstable heels. This design flaw caused the models to walk awkwardly and seemed uncomfortable to wear. It was an unexpected misstep for a brand with 171 years of expertise in the shoe and luxury industry.
Overall, Milan Fashion Week witnessed the ascent of young designers who brought a fresh perspective to established fashion houses. Filippo Grazioli’s delicate evolution of Missoni and Rhuigi Villaseñor’s infusion of sophistication and glamour into Bally have successfully refreshed the brands, captivating the fashion world with their vision and creativity.
Useful Links:
– Vogue Milan Fashion Week Shows
– Business of Fashion Milan Fashion Week
