Milan Fashion Week this season saw a powerful backlash against the rise of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry. Brands like Brioni, Corneliani, and Philippe Model stood out by showcasing their collections with a strong emphasis on traditional craftsmanship and contemporary French style.
Legendary tailoring house Brioni took center stage and showcased a variety of leisure looks and women’s wear. One floor of their presentation was transformed into an atelier, complete with sketches, fabric swatches, and all the tools of the trade. The use of focused spotlighting created a dramatic effect in the shape of hands, driving home the message that handmade craftsmanship is irreplaceable by AI. Lead designer Norbert Stumpfl emphasized the importance of the human touch in fashion.
Innovation was key for Brioni, as they presented new fabrics such as a uniquely marbleized finish achieved by manipulating lightweight silk fabric. The collection also featured patchwork dinner jackets in different textures like velvet and silk, responding to the growing demand for casual luxury. CEO Mehdi Benabadji noted the increasing interest in leisurewear from both men and women. Brioni, which has served women clients with custom-made clothing for a long time, plans to showcase a dedicated women’s collection during Milan’s women’s ready-to-wear season.
Corneliani, another brand with a rich heritage, aimed to highlight its roots by showcasing the meticulous steps involved in making a great jacket. They focused on pattern cutting, baste fitting, assembly, and sewing. This juxtaposition of tradition and contemporary design was masterfully executed under the guidance of GM and style director Stefano Grazioso Tramonti. Corneliani embraced a forgiving silhouette and a sense of contemporary volume with creations like creamy whiskey-colored patch pocket over-shirts and lightweight peacoats in knubby cashmere.
Philippe Model made a notable comeback at Milan Fashion Week with its first fashion collection in decades. Creative director Tuomas Merikoski, known for his work with Givenchy and Louis Vuitton, designed the collection to embody a cool and credible French aesthetic. Merikoski successfully brought back the artistic and creative spirit of Paris, incorporating the brand’s name in leather patches and shield-shaped pockets. The showroom at via Bigli showcased the artistic vision of Philippe Model himself through impressionistic repainted walls, further emphasizing the brand’s commitment to authenticity and craftsmanship.
Originally a Parisian hatter and aesthete, Philippe Model has evolved into a high-end sneaker marque. After being acquired by 21 Investimenti in 2016, the brand has plans to expand its fashion collection using a wholesale model. With only six flagship stores worldwide, the arrival of Saks buyers at Milan Fashion Week suggests positive prospects for the brand, particularly in the United States. CEO Stefano Di Nezza revealed plans to open a distribution center, further fueling the brand’s growth and success.
Overall, Milan Fashion Week sent a clear message that there is a strong resistance to AI in the fashion industry. Brands like Brioni, Corneliani, and Philippe Model showcased the value of traditional craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and innovative design. As the fashion industry continues to evolve, these brands are committed to maintaining the human touch and providing exquisite garments for both men and women.
Useful links:
1. Brioni Official Website
2. Philippe Model Official Website
