The menswear collections presented at Paris Fashion Week offered a fascinating glimpse into the ever-evolving world of men’s fashion. Designers Bianca Saunders and Hed Mayner captivated audiences with their innovative and contemporary takes on tailoring for the Autumn-Winter 2023/24 season.
Bianca Saunders, a British designer of Jamaican descent, has garnered widespread acclaim for her boundary-pushing designs. Her collections challenge the conventions of traditional menswear and offer versatile looks that can be worn by both men and women. As the show commenced, models gathered around a small blue wooden bar, creating an atmosphere of relaxed elegance. The models donned classic-looking suits, trench coats, and shirts that revealed unexpected twists and reconstructions, injecting a contemporary flair into their overall aesthetic.
One of Saunders’ notable design elements was the introduction of sleeved pieces that were asymmetrically closed with a triangular fabric attachment, creating the illusion of an envelope flap. Traditional grey flannel jackets took on the appearance of tops, while chunky waistbands on cozy knitwear featured a captivating front flap, adding a dynamic element to the silhouettes. Lapels underwent striking transformations, with some jackets eschewing traditional collars yet still featuring lapels, while other looks showcased a white leather mackintosh with the lapel artfully folded over the front resembling a large ribbon. Saunders adeptly manipulated the traditional codes of menswear with precision, curiosity, and delicacy. This season, she delved into the realms of blurred or photo prints, presenting total look outfits consisting of trousers and shirts crafted from printed silks. Additionally, Saunders crafted edgy ensembles using frayed dark denim accented with white thread, achieving a distinctly cool aesthetic.
Hed Mayner, on the other hand, shattered the confines of the traditional suit with an audacious collection. Straight-cut jackets were shortened, while loose and flowing trousers were elongated and inflated. Double-breasted jackets in grey flannel or elegant black dinner jackets were cinched at the waist, creating a visually striking clepsydra shape. The timeless pea coat adopted a rounded silhouette with drooping shoulders, and puffy parkas took on an oval form. Skirts boldly replaced trousers, and coats extended all the way to the ground, amplifying their width. Accessories played a pivotal role in Mayner’s collection, with oversized pouches hanging from belts or serving as shoulder straps, and removable maxi pockets attached to the bottom of jeans. Mayner, an Israeli designer known for drawing inspiration from workwear to create a protective and practical unisex style, artfully incorporated contrasting elements in his collection. Flesh-colored bonnets and transparent tops and trousers made from powdered tulle were worn under oversized down jackets and coats, resulting in a striking bare skin effect.
Bianca Saunders and Hed Mayner both showcased their distinctive visions of the man’s suit, pushing boundaries and reimagining traditional tailoring. With their ultra-contemporary approaches and unique twists, these designers have undoubtedly paved the way for the future of menswear.
Useful links:
1. Bianca Saunders Fall 2023 Menswear Collection
2. Hed Mayner Fall 2023 Menswear Collection
