The Men’s Paris Fashion Week commenced with an air of intrigue and mystery, reflecting the current crisis and establishing the tone for the upcoming collections. Egonlab and Etudes Studio stole the spotlight on the first day, immersing the audience into a nocturnal world and inviting them on a transformative journey through the city.
Egonlab’s show was a true embodiment of the nightlife scene, incorporating underground and punk influences into their designs. The set design created a dreamlike atmosphere, with flickering street lamps, distant thunderstorms, and whimsical creatures that seemed to belong to another realm. The collection was dominated by leather pieces, metallic spine necklaces, moth-eaten jumpers with strategically placed holes, and vibrant red-checked tartan. The tartan was showcased in various forms, including overskirts, scarves, quilted jackets, and coats. The overall vibe of the collection was casual, with loose layering of floral shirts, jumpers, and denim jackets paired with multicolored fleece jackets and distressed jeans. The designers also reinvented chic ensembles, such as tweed suits, in a more provocative fashion by featuring feminine silhouettes with camisoles and flowing satin jumpsuits. Bold outfits also made a statement, with models confidently strutting in boots, Bermuda shorts, and leather trousers, paired with oversized fur coats or eye-catching pink jackets.
Among the standout pieces of the collection were reworked suits with peaked shoulders and wide sleeves, as well as coats with knitted lapels that extended like scarves. Notable items included a petrol blue mini puffer jacket, a velvet jacket with a diamond-patterned collar and knitted edge, and a show-stopping coat entirely made of garlands. Egonlab also introduced unique pieces like a pleated mini-kilt shaped like an upturned shirt, denim garter belts that can be worn over jeans, and belts featuring Gucci’s iconic gold double G buckle as part of their collaboration with the renowned Italian luxury brand.
The creative duo behind Egonlab shared their inspiration backstage, revealing that they designed the collection as a real-world manifestation of Wonderland, where individuals draw from their dreams or nightmares to shape their identity. The tailoring showcases elements of grunge and punk, resulting in a wardrobe that embraces femininity while defying gender norms. With their collection now distributed through around fifty retailers and a newly launched website, Egonlab is poised to make a significant impact on the fashion industry.
On the other end of the spectrum, Etudes Studio presented a show equally unsettling. The venue was an abandoned concrete car park, illuminated by the dim glow of a few spotlights. The show commenced with artist-composer Koudlam serenading the audience with a melancholic song as he gradually descended down the ramps, dressed in a suit, hat, and dark glasses. Models emerged in head-to-toe ensembles, showcasing an array of worn and faded clothing in subdued tones of old pink, beige, grey, black, and blue-green. The collection struck a balance between casual pieces, including faded denim and tracksuits, and more formal ensembles like suits and camel coats. The show concluded with a nod to street art culture, with white graffiti adorning a large black jumper or wool suit.
As the Men’s Paris Fashion Week commenced, Egonlab and Etudes Studio set a high bar with their dark and captivating shows. The fashion world now eagerly anticipates the innovative and boundary-pushing collections that will follow, as these designers continue to push the limits of creativity and self-expression.
Useful links relevant to the article:
1. Vogue – Men’s Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021
2. Business of Fashion – Paris Menswear Round-Up: Industry Insiders
