Men’s fashion is currently experiencing a noticeable transition towards a softer and more elegant aesthetic, aligning with the growing prominence of the quiet luxury trend. This shift was evident during Paris Fashion Week, particularly in the captivating collections presented by renowned designers Walter Van Beirendonck and LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi.
Walter Van Beirendonck, recognized for his vivacious and eccentric designs, surprised the fashion world with a remarkably subdued collection this season. While his non-conformist and unconventional style remained intact, there was an overall sense of tranquility and restraint throughout the garments. The collection predominantly featured monochromatic pieces in classic menswear colors like white, black, navy, and sky blue. Van Beirendonck explained that he aimed to move away from his usual multicolored creations and venture into the realm of minimalism. Drawing inspiration from cutting-edge technologies and artificial intelligence, as well as the mythical lost city of Dawleetoo, the collection showcased a fusion of futuristic and vintage aesthetics. Elements from sports such as rugby, running, cycling, and American football were ingeniously incorporated. The introduction of red vinyl patterns and translucent fabrics added dimension and texture to the looks. The collection culminated with models donning plastic covers with a powerful message urging to “Stop terrorizing our world.”
In stark contrast, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi sought inspiration from Christopher Isherwood’s renowned novel, “A Single Man.” This literary masterpiece revolves around an aging professor in 1960s America who grapples with the inability to express his sorrow after losing his partner in a tragic car accident. Nouchi, recognized for challenging conventional notions of masculinity, unveiled a discreet and introspective collection. The models gracefully exhibited somber and refined suits embellished with red eyes and tear motifs, symbolizing the protagonist’s suppressed emotions. Nouchi skillfully intertwined subtle sensuality through openwork jumpers, exposed shoulders, and adeptly twisted and crossed designs, which revealed the hidden feelings within. Leather pieces with a dented effect evoked the imagery of a car accident, while a silver fabric with crumpled metallic relief added a modern touch. The designer placed great emphasis on eco-responsibility within this collection, exclusively utilizing sustainable materials and employing dyeing processes that minimize adverse environmental effects.
Both Van Beirendonck and Nouchi showcased their mastery in conveying emotions and narrating compelling stories through their remarkable menswear collections. Their designs not only exemplified their creative brilliance but also epitomized the current shift towards a more understated and refined approach to men’s fashion. As the trend for quiet luxury continues to garner traction, it is truly captivating to witness how designers are ingeniously finding novel ways to communicate and connect with their audience through their exquisitely crafted sartorial creations.
Useful links:
1. Vogue: Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2022 Trend Report
2. GQ: Men’s Fashion Trends Fall 2022
