Max Mara, an esteemed luxury brand, wowed the audience with its latest collection that exuded elegance, intelligence, and brilliance. Designer Ian Griffiths drew inspiration from Max Mara’s sponsorship of the Gulbenkian Museum’s restoration of an 18th-century art collection in Lisbon. This connection led Griffiths to ponder the parallels between that era and our current society, particularly in terms of ideas and communication.
Among Griffiths’ muses for this collection was the remarkable Emilie de Châtelet, a close companion of Voltaire. Châtelet, known for her intellectual pursuits and translations of Isaac Newton’s works, captivated Griffiths with her intellect and time spent immersed in scientific experiments and philosophical discussions at her Chateau du Cirey. In imagining what Châtelet might have worn during that era, Griffiths designed garments that paid homage to her while maintaining a modern flare.
In this collection, Griffiths took a rational approach to dressing during a time when fashion served as protection against evil. One of the key elements featured was the Banyan coat, a loose garment inspired by the kimono that was introduced to Europe in the 17th century. Max Mara presented various versions of the Banyan coat in different fabrics and colors, pairing them unexpectedly with posh bovver boots and accessorizing with leather obi belts or corsets.
The collection also showcased impressive double-faced cashmere redingotes, highlighting Max Mara’s impeccable craftsmanship. Fluid coats reminiscent of court dresses from the reign of Louis XV were juxtaposed with swirling parkas and ribbed cashmere cardigans. Griffiths played with volumes, presenting billowing pant suits, coppery brocade bubble skirts, and dresses.
The models glided past towering fluted columns while a dramatic soundtrack of “Addolorata” by Ryan Bigelow and deep funk resonated in the background. Tonne Goodman, a highly regarded stylist, ensured that the models embraced a modest and timeless aesthetic by tying their hair back with simple ribbons. The show took place within the walls of La Rotonda della Bessana, a former Renaissance hospital, which added to the grandeur of the presentation.
In addition to the stunning collection, the show marked the long-awaited return of Chinese stars and influencers to European fashion shows. As travel restrictions from China eased, their presence added to the global appeal of Max Mara. Photographers eagerly captured influencers under the beautifully lit colonnades, further enhancing Max Mara’s brand image on various social media platforms.
Undeniably, the highlight of the morning was Ian Griffiths’ exceptional collection for Max Mara. With its romantic dignity, intellectual references, and impeccable craftsmanship, Max Mara solidifies its position as a brand that embodies true luxury.
Useful Links:
1. Max Mara Official Website
2. Gulbenkian Museum Official Website
