Max Mara’s Cruise 2022 collection, titled ‘Local Color’, is a testament to the enduring allure of refinement and sophistication. In a world that has been heavily influenced by the pandemic, Creative Director Ian Griffiths believes that women will continue to prioritize elegance and grace over ease and comfort. To capture this essence, Griffiths drew inspiration from Truman Capote’s legendary clique of stylish and affluent friends, known as the Swans, who were renowned for their timeless sense of style.
In the search for inspiration for his first collection after the lockdown, Griffiths delved into Capote’s novels and unearthed the author’s connection to the picturesque island of Ischia, where the collection’s show took place. The collection strikes a delicate balance between the simplicity of island life and the utmost sophistication of the Swans, who were known for their frequent visits to Paris during the haute-couture season.
Unlike typical cruise collections that often focus on skimpy cocktail wear and swimwear, Griffiths takes a couture approach by elevating the silhouettes. The pieces are designed for busy professional women, featuring hyper-refined and flattering designs. Notably, a standout piece from the collection is the double-breasted coat in techno-jersey, which impeccably maintains its shape even when wrapped up for a journey. Additionally, high funnel-necks, high waistlines, puckered details, and gathered blazers add a touch of practical ease and elegance.
The collection’s opulence lies in its simplicity, reflecting the lifestyle of the Swans. Truman’s Swans favored a life of high living with simple food, and Griffiths captures this aesthetic by featuring a key print of micro-geraniums on long tunics, reminiscent of what Marella Agnelli, one of the Swans, would wear. The collection shies away from excessive surface decoration and embroidery, instead focusing on clothes that harmoniously work with the wearer, rather than demanding attention.
In a nostalgic nod to the refined elegance of the 1950s, Max Mara enlisted Ginevra Elkann, Marella Agnelli’s granddaughter, to shoot the show video. The aerial footage showcases the stunning Mezzatorre hotel, the stone runway, and the picturesque Mediterranean sea. Due to COVID-19 restrictions, the show had a limited audience of 90 guests. Adding a touch of luxury and mirroring the elegance portrayed in the film adaptation of “The Talented Mr. Ripley,” shot in Ischia, the models arrived by yacht.
Curated by New York DJ Johnny Dynell, the show’s soundtrack created an enthralling atmosphere for guests. After the show, the audience indulged in a post-dinner dance by the pool, where today’s influencers—affectionately dubbed the Instagram Swans—celebrated with joy and vitality. This modern interpretation of the Swans era showcases the simple pleasure of dancing and having fun. Interestingly, the Instagram Swans even hired their own husbands as social media photographers, a striking contrast to the Swans of the past who relied on the wealth and influence of their husbands.
Max Mara’s Cruise 2022 collection encapsulates an enduring vision of elegance and sophistication. With its refined silhouettes, practical designs, and subtle nods to the Swans era, the collection offers a glimpse of stylish possibilities for the post-pandemic world.
Useful Links:
– Max Mara Official Website
– Vogue
