Marni, under the creative direction of Francesco Risso, wowed the audience with their debut in Paris. The show was held in the former apartment of the late fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld on rue de l’Université, adding a touch of history and elegance to the event. Risso transformed the venue with his quirky seating arrangement – custom-made 10-meter-long white inflatable sausages, creating a playful and whimsical atmosphere.
To further enhance the ambience, classical quintets and stray electric guitar players were scattered throughout the 18th-century mansion. The invitation for the show even featured a handwritten message from Risso, taking a nostalgic trip down memory lane to his teenage years in Pigalle.
Risso’s designs showcased a range of silhouettes, with classical checks and tartans stealing the spotlight. He played with proportions, slashing wide jackets into mini-capes and transforming singlets into oversized chess piece shapes. Risso’s ability to toe the line between whimsy and farce was evident in his creations. From tent-like trench coats to plaid suits resembling ballerinas’ tutus, the collection exuded grandeur without veering into grandiosity.
Alongside the innovative cuts, Risso presented taut micro-mesh party dresses and striped knits. The show reached its crescendo with three stunning metallic petal fantasy bird of paradise looks. These intricate pieces must have required weeks of meticulous craftsmanship. The color palette, featuring bitter orange, soft Barbie pink, and metallic blues, perfectly complemented the historic setting of Lagerfeld’s mansion.
“Undress the mind, dress the sense,” described Risso, capturing the inspiration behind the collection. Initially, there was skepticism when Risso took over as Marni’s creative director, as he had replaced the brand’s founder, Consuelo Castiglioni. However, with this exceptional show, Risso has proven that Marni now belongs to him in terms of design.
Marni is part of Renzo Rosso’s fashion empire, along with other prominent brands like Victor & Rolf, Jil Sander, Margiela, and DSquared. With his distinctive vision and impeccable craftsmanship, Risso continues to push the boundaries of innovation and style.
To learn more about Marni and their unique aesthetic, visit their official website here. For a glimpse into the world of Karl Lagerfeld, you can explore his legacy and designs at the official Karl Lagerfeld website here.
