LVMH, the renowned French luxury conglomerate, is currently facing a period of negotiations, speculations, and potential changes when it comes to the creative directors of its various luxury brands. The recent departure of Matthew M. Williams, who has been leading the creative direction at Givenchy since 2020, has sparked rumors and speculation about his successor and potential changes in other LVMH labels. Particularly, Givenchy is in desperate need of a designer who can rejuvenate the brand, as it has struggled to recover its pre-Covid revenue levels in recent years. The big question is now whether LVMH Fashion Group CEO Sidney Toledano will go for a celebrity designer, an experienced stylist, or a rising star to take on the role.
One name that has frequently been mentioned in connection with Givenchy is Sarah Burton, who successfully guided Alexander McQueen for an impressive fourteen years before leaving in September. Christelle Kocher, known for her street couture aesthetic and luxury experience, is also a potential candidate for the position. Julien Dossena, the creative director of Paco Rabanne, has had his name thrown around in previous discussions for creative director roles, but it seems unlikely for him to take on the Givenchy position. The return of Riccardo Tisci, who was let go from Burberry in 2022, is also seen as unlikely. London-based designers Simone Rocha and Richard Quinn are other possible contenders. Furthermore, there have been talks about Simon Porte Jacquemus potentially stepping into the Givenchy role, although previous discussions about his suitability led to no concrete outcomes as he currently remains committed to maintaining his independent label.
The vacant creative director position at Givenchy may also trigger changes at other LVMH labels, such as Fendi. Kim Jones, who has overseen Dior Homme for the past five years and took on Fendi’s womenswear and haute couture in 2020, has not made a significant impact thus far. Silvia Venturini Fendi, who worked alongside the late Karl Lagerfeld for 27 years and took charge for two seasons after his passing, could also be a potential candidate. Alessandro Michele, the former creative director of Gucci, has also been the subject of rumors. Having previously worked in Fendi’s accessories department, there is speculation that he may collaborate with the Roman label once again. There are also whispers that he could potentially join Bulgari, another brand owned by LVMH. Another surprising theory suggests that Michele could replace Maria Grazia Chiuri as the creative director of Christian Dior’s womenswear collections, while Chiuri could transition to Fendi. However, this theory has not been confirmed by other reliable sources.
This situation could also provide opportunities for the creative directors of other LVMH labels to explore new possibilities. Jonathan Anderson, the creative mind behind his own label as well as the Spanish brand Loewe, has witnessed significant growth at Loewe since taking the reins in 2013. After a decade, he may be ready to take on a more prestigious position. While the creative director position at Louis Vuitton seems secure, there have been rumors of tension between Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative director for women’s collections, and his colleague Pharrell Williams, who recently took charge of menswear. Bernard Arnault’s vast luxury empire is always on the lookout for fresh creative energy, even for its smaller brands. For instance, Berluti and Loro Piana are currently without a creative director, and unexpected twists can be anticipated at LVMH in 2024.
As LVMH continues to navigate negotiations, speculations, and potential changes in creative directors, the search for fresh talent and innovative ideas remains a top priority for the luxury conglomerate. In the upcoming months, it will become clear who will assume the leadership positions at Givenchy and other LVMH brands, ultimately shaping the future of these esteemed fashion houses.
Useful Links:
1. Vogue – Givenchy Matthew M. Williams Designer
2. Business of Fashion – Boom Times for LVMH
