Louis Vuitton bid farewell to the late Virgil Abloh at his final show in Paris, creating an unforgettable and emotionally charged event. The show, held on Thursday, featured a stunning set called the “Louis Dreamhouse” designed in Mayan blue. It was a surreal experience that showcased the talents of parkour athletes, gymnasts, break dancers, mimes, and a 20-piece orchestra named Chineke. The orchestra, conducted by Gustavo Dudamel, performed a score inspired by conversations with Abloh, who tragically passed away on November 28, 2021, at the young age of 41 after a secret battle with illness.
One of Abloh’s main contributions to the fashion world was his strong influence on Black culture and art, which was evident throughout the show. In a statement from 2020, he emphasized the importance of preserving his own output and contributing to a “Black Canon.” The show program booklet provided an overview of Abloh’s eight previous Vuitton shows, showcasing his motifs, design manifesto, upcycling ideology, vocabulary, and a run of show. Abloh was known for his hardworking nature and his ability to effectively communicate his ideas.
The show began with parkour performers defying gravity with impressive stunts on multiple stairways, resembling Giorgio De Chirico paintings. Surrealism was a prevailing theme throughout the show, with prints of De Chirico’s architectural dreams and Gustave Courbet’s elegiac images adorning frock coats and redingotes. Abloh fearlessly borrowed ideas from various sources and incorporated them into his luxury streetwear aesthetic.
Held inside the Carreau du Temple, an exquisite late 19th-century market made of wrought iron and glass, the set was a combination of a sunken prairie, a clinker-built wooden home, a rural guest-house, and an enormous Mayan blue dinner table where the orchestra performed. Among the front-row audience were Bernard Arnault, the head of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, and his family, as well as prominent black artists and musicians.
Although Abloh was known as a luxury streetwear designer, he surprised the audience by showcasing a range of crisp tailoring. In his show program, he expressed frustration with the misuse of the term “streetwear,” emphasizing that it is not merely a fashion trend, but a community and commodity.
The highlight of the show was the appearance of naïve, childlike cartoon characters on red-carpet outfits. Grim Reapers, wizards, bumble bees, and Top Cat adorned track suits, raincoats, varsity jackets, and denim jackets. The show reached its climactic moment when three angels dressed in ecru, putty, and white priestly garments with giant lace wings emerged. This powerful imagery symbolized a fashion paradise on earth and a meeting of cherubim with the designer himself.
Towards the finale, Abloh’s studio staff, dressed in the sunset colors featured on the show’s invitation and the number ‘8,’ appeared onstage. Over 30 staff members clapped and applauded their departed designer with tears in their eyes, embracing the cast members. Their presence served as a poignant tribute to Abloh’s lasting legacy at Louis Vuitton.
In conclusion, Louis Vuitton’s final show under the creative direction of Virgil Abloh was a surreal and emotionally charged event. Abloh’s influential impact on Black culture and art was evident, and his ability to seamlessly blend high fashion with streetwear was showcased throughout the collection. The show not only celebrated Abloh’s talent but also served as a moving tribute to a designer whose impact on the industry will be remembered for years to come.
Useful links:
1. Virgil Abloh Interview with GQ
2. Louis Vuitton Fall 2022 Menswear Collection
