London Fashion Week has long been regarded as a stage where the realms of contemporary politics and haute couture collide. Just as the military strategist Carl Philipp Gottfried von Clausewitz famously proclaimed that war is the continuation of politics by other means, fashion, too, can serve as a powerful catalyst for political expression. This season at London Fashion Week, iconic designer Vivienne Westwood delivered a poignant and provocative showcase with her eco agitprop performance, joined by Greenpeace leader John Sauven. Titled “Homo Loquax,” Westwood’s collection featured models delivering impassioned speeches on urgent issues such as climate change and the insidious grip of corporate greed.
A stalwart activist, Westwood unveiled her collection in a packed St John’s Church, where activists from diverse movements took to the runway to denounce complacency and the pitfalls of the prevailing financial order. The garments, though a secondary element, made a bold impact with striking tartan ensembles, sleek patent leather boots, and vibrant plaid coats. The show culminated in a defiant march led by Westwood herself, as the cast brandished banners and political posters, embodying the spirit of resistance and advocacy.
In stark contrast, designer Henry Holland used his collection as a platform to challenge the notion of divisive borders and champion the concept of a “Global Citizen.” His runway reverberated with messages of unity and cultural diversity, as models flaunted neon tailoring, tie-dye tops, and ruched skirts, accentuated by Che Guevara berets and robust hiking boots. The collection encapsulated Holland’s steadfast optimism and vision of a world free from constraints.
Amid the tumultuous backdrop of Brexit, London continues to attract international talents like Pedro Lourenço, who showcased his Zilver collection at a distinctive venue in Soho. The presentation seamlessly melded London’s dynamism with São Paolo’s allure, showcasing sleek waistcoats, metallic slacks, and avant-garde jackets. Lourenço’s concept of “Classics of the Future” translated into wearable yet cutting-edge pieces that graced the runway.
Renowned for his exquisite craftsmanship, designer Erdem Moralioglu drew inspiration from the tale of Roman Princess Orietta Doria Pogson Pamphilj, a staunch anti-Fascist of the 1960s. His collection featured meticulously embroidered dresses, tailored suits, and opulent gowns, paying homage to a period defined by tolerance and openness. Erdem’s line epitomized the fusion of fashion and socio-political commentary, advocating for inclusivity and mutual understanding.
London Fashion Week once more emerged as a hub of innovation, dissent, and cultural interchange. The convergence of design and activism showcased how fashion can serve as a potent vehicle for social transformation. In an era fraught with uncertainties, London’s fashion landscape remains a beacon of resilience and creativity, underscoring the notion that style can be a reflection of our principles and convictions.
1. Explore more about London Fashion Week
2. Join Greenpeace’s environmental activism
