London Fashion Week featured two standout designers, Erdem Moralioglu and Roland Mouret, who wowed audiences with their Spring/Summer 2022 collections. Moralioglu’s show at the British Museum was a moment of grace amidst unpredictable English showers. Inspired by his new neighborhood in Bloomsbury and the extraordinary women who once lived there, Moralioglu’s collection paid tribute to the independent thinking and unique approach to life that Dame Edith Sitwell and Lady Ottoline Morrell were known for.
The show opened with a recording of Sitwell reciting a poem, setting the stage for a sensational collection. The standout pieces included mannish tuxedo shirts paired with silver embroidered linen skirts, perforated white poplin dresses, and A-line trench coats with an Edwardian silhouette. The dresses, adorned with chiffon saucer hats in black or oversized chintz florals, were particularly captivating. White cotton played a significant role in the collection, symbolizing a new chapter for Erdem’s 15th anniversary.
To foreshadow his upcoming men’s collection, Moralioglu incorporated gentlemanly looks into the womenswear show. Models strutted down the runway in little-boy plaid colonial suits and shirts made of elegant floral pencil drawings. The connection between the men’s and women’s collections mirrored the extraordinary love affairs of Sitwell and Morrell, adding a touch of romance to the show.
Moralioglu’s show served as a reminder of the power and beauty of live fashion shows. The designer emphasized the irreplaceable experience of seeing a body of work in person, highlighting how the energy and movement of garments create a unique and captivating experience that cannot be replicated through film or digital mediums.
Another highlight of London Fashion Week was Roland Mouret’s film premiere, taking the concept of fashion videos to the next level. Mouret unveiled his latest collaboration, ‘Terma,’ in a private screening room at the Soho Hotel. The film reimagined a key chapter of the Odyssey, with Ulysses depicted as a black refugee who is saved by three beautiful sirens after floating ashore on a life belt.
Shot in Aegina, an island near Athens, ‘Terma’ starred Magaajyia Silberfeld as a modern-day Hera. The film delved into themes of identity and love with a Kafkaesque interpretation of Homer’s classic tale. Mouret’s collection, showcased within the film, featured soft-hued summer dresses, halterneck sheathes, and comfortable elasticated-waist trousers.
The collection’s Mediterranean color palette, consisting of pale mint, pearl, faded rose, and sea blue, radiated a sense of hope and optimism. Mouret’s optimistic statement mirrored his own outlook on creativity and empowerment, leaving a lasting impression on the fashion industry.
Overall, London Fashion Week proved to be a platform for exceptional talent and inspiration. Erdem Moralioglu and Roland Mouret captivated audiences with their unique visions, paying homage to history, literature, and their creative journeys. These designers reminded us of the power of fashion to tell stories and evoke emotions, ensuring that the impact of their collections will be felt long after the runway shows end.
Useful links:
1. Independent – Erdem’s London Fashion Week Show
2. Vogue – Erdem Spring/Summer 2022 Collection
