London Fashion Week day two was a whirlwind of creativity and diversity, as designers Labrum London, Molly Goddard, KNWLS, and Edeline Lee took center stage with their unique visions. Despite a smaller lineup, each designer managed to leave a lasting impression with their range of ideas.
Labrum London especially stole the show with their explosive and groundbreaking collection. Led by designer Foday Dumbuya, Labrum London showcased the beauty of inclusivity in the fashion industry. With experience designing Sierra Leone Olympic uniforms for over 16 disciplines, Dumbuya aimed to blend West African panache with UK heritage. The show kicked off with an enthralling performance by Balimaya Project, a band that seamlessly fused Fela Kuti funk and jazz. The collection itself featured drop-shoulder suits in bold stripes, paired with high-collar shirts boasting tulip sleeves. Hand-drawn prints depicting Sierra Leonean village life added a unique touch to power blue suits and grand sleeveless gowns. Tie-dye dusters and blazers, as well as striking headgear like towering turbans, further emphasized the fusion of cultures. The set, curated by artist Yinka Ilori and featuring 70s graphic screens and ottomans, provided the perfect backdrop for Labrum London’s dynamic collection.
Molly Goddard, a renowned designer in London, made her mark with a small presentation and video this season while technically on maternity leave. True to her signature aesthetic, Goddard focused on elaborate volumes, showcasing smock dresses in candy floss pink and daisy yellow. Puckered chiffon blouses and layered tulle cocktails worn over wide-legged jeans, chalk-stripe pants, and track pants added depth to the collection. Goddard’s video featured models donning oversized soutanes, creating a subtly rebellious vibe reminiscent of naughty altar boys. The shoot took place in a former umbrella factory, adding a cool and clever atmosphere to the presentation.
KNWLS, helmed by Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, took a bold approach by choosing an unconventional venue for their show – a carpark beneath Cavendish Square. Their collection titled “Adrenalin” catered to self-assertive femmes fatales, featuring abstract floral bodices held together with string, rusticated leather hipster pants, saucy corsets, frilly prairie flower frocks, and barely-there, low-cut leather cocktails layered over chiffon leggings. One standout piece was a combination of bicycle shorts, a bodice, and a blown-up leather blouson, where the elasticated knit trim covered the entire back. The models rocked serpent leather cowboy ankle boots and oversized faux pearl earrings, perfectly complementing the bold and eye-catching designs. The gritty carpark venue only added to the allure and uniqueness of the collection.
Edeline Lee took the audience on a surreal journey with her Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Through a lush video featuring models in dreamlike landscapes, the Canadian-born designer showcased her on-the-move style. Bubble jacquards, crinkly georgettes, and sturdy cotton poplins sourced from Milano Unica, Lee’s favorite fabric fair, played a central role in the collection. The presentation, set in an elegant Harley Street pied-à-terre, captured the essence of Lee’s unique aesthetic. Despite the challenges posed by the Covid pandemic, Lee’s commitment to her craft shone through in her meticulous attention to detail and her ability to create stunning and polished designs.
London Fashion Week day two celebrated the boundless nature of creativity. Labrum London, Molly Goddard, KNWLS, and Edeline Lee showcased their innovative and diverse perspectives, pushing boundaries and inspiring us with their designs. The day was a testament to the power of fashion as a form of self-expression and identity.
Useful links:
1. London Fashion Week Official Website
2. Vogue’s Coverage of London Fashion Week
