London Fashion Week on Sunday was a whirlwind of creativity and innovation as designers unveiled their latest collections. JW Anderson, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Nensi Dojaka, and S.S. Daley took center stage, each offering their own unique vision and pushing the limits of fashion. While the collections may not have been flawless, they all highlighted the designers’ commitment to their craft and their determination to carve out their own distinct fashion universe.
JW Anderson made a powerful statement by collaborating with iconic dancer, choreographer, filmmaker, and visual artist Michael Clark. Clark’s history of successful collaborations with renowned designers and musicians lent a sense of artistic credibility to the show. The collection featured bold silhouettes, such as tubular tops made of faux shearling with pockets strategically placed at the ribcage, creating a visually arresting and thought-provoking aesthetic.
Erdem Moralioglu transported viewers to a world of distressed Victorian beauty, drawing inspiration from his own Bloomsbury townhouse with roots as a refuge for marginalized women. The collection showcased exquisitely embroidered trench coats, jackets paired with metallized taffeta bustle skirts, and asymmetric lace dresses in striking acid yellow and black. Erdem’s mastery of fabric draping and fearless approach to cutting and proportion cemented his status as a true visionary in the industry.
Christopher Kane took us on an adventurous journey through his animal-inspired collection. Lycra prints featuring pigs and mice adorned form-fitting cocktail and party dresses, creating an eclectic and unpredictable assortment. While the show had a slow start, Kane hit his stride midway, presenting sequined dresses and lacey femme fatale looks that were simultaneously seductive and chic. The collection had its highs and lows, but the standout pieces truly shone, showcasing Kane’s ability to create designs that leave a lasting impression.
Nensi Dojaka, winner of the prestigious LVMH Prize and a social media phenomenon, delivered a collection that epitomized semi-sheer sassiness and sophistication. Known for her lingerie-inspired designs, Dojaka showcased bra tops, mesh tops, skirts, dresses, and tunics that left little to the imagination. The razor-sharp cocktails with gauze and lace inserts were particularly striking, though some may argue that the collection could have benefitted from a few more cold-weather options. Nevertheless, Dojaka’s talent for flattering the female form was evident in every look, and the show-stopping finale featuring runway stars Mariacarla Boscono, Adut Akech, and Imaan Hamman left the audience in awe.
S.S. Daley closed out the day with a mesmerizing collection accompanied by the recitation of Tennyson’s famous lines by none other than Oscar nominee Sir Ian McKellen. The co-ed display of poetic fashion showcased men in silk striped double-breasted jackets paired with fitted jodhpurs, while women embodied seaport bar amazons in voluminous gathered skirts and Moll Flanders-inspired blouses. Though some looks raised eyebrows, such as Wedgwood plates affixed to knits and tops, Daley’s collection provided a breath of fresh air, with the designer clearly on a journey of self-discovery and creative expression.
In summary, London Fashion Week Sunday was a platform for designers to challenge the conventional boundaries of fashion and explore their unique identities. JW Anderson, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Nensi Dojaka, and S.S. Daley each brought their own artistic flair, leaving us eagerly anticipating the future of fashion. While perfection may have eluded the collections, they all showcased the designers’ unwavering commitment to their craft and their ability to create fashion moments that surprise and captivate.
Useful links:
1. London Fashion Week official website
2. LVMH Prize official website
