London Fashion Week got off to an exciting start as three exceptional designers, Edward Crutchley, David Koma, and Nensi Dojaka, captivated the audience with their unique fashion statements. Despite a decrease in shows and guests this season, these designers managed to make a powerful impact both politically, sociologically, and aesthetically.
The afternoon kicked off with Edward Crutchley’s remarkable display of fashion historicism. Inspired by the vibrant gay culture of 18th-century London, Crutchley incorporated recycled polyester and Lurex brocade into his designs. The result was a stunning array of bodices, mini skirts, and dresses with dramatic trains. The show, held at Collins Music Hall in Islington, had an otherworldly feel thanks to the laser lighting. Crutchley’s ensembles were both beautiful and extravagant, adorned with gold-plated charms, necklaces, party-animal body chains, and ocelot-print headscarves. When asked about the significance of 18th-century gay culture, Crutchley emphasized the importance of speaking up and showcasing beauty in a world that may not always be kind to queer individuals.
Next up was David Koma, renowned for his work at Thierry Mugler. Koma presented a mesmerizing display of sexy, synchronized swimming chic. The show took place at the London Aquatics Centre, a venue characterized by its organic concrete architecture and high-diving boards. Models strutted before the impressive backdrop, wearing skin-tight Lycra leotards, crystal-trimmed puckered feather bubble skirts and sleeves, micro cocktails, slashed Barbie Doll dresses, and sequined pantsuits. The show paid homage to classic pin-up photos by Esther Williams and the choreography of Busby Berkeley, resulting in a glamorous and visually stunning spectacle.
Lastly, Nensi Dojaka, the winner of the LVMH Prize, showcased her undeniable talent at London Fashion Week. Dojaka is known for her exceptional lingerie designs, and she did not disappoint. Her collection showcased beautifully crafted slip dresses, brassieres, and well-tailored pants. However, some critics noted that the range of the collection seemed limited and the styling and location were not suitable for the intimate nature of the garments. Holding a lingerie show inside a disused warehouse raised questions about the presentation’s overall impact. The absence of plus-sized models and a Sports Illustrated amazon also led to concerns about inclusivity. Furthermore, the fact that no representative from LVMH was present at the show sparked speculation about the influence of key industry figures.
In conclusion, London Fashion Week commenced with a range of diverse and unforgettable fashion statements. Despite the challenges posed by the current climate, designers such as Edward Crutchley, David Koma, and Nensi Dojaka managed to captivate the audience and showcase their unique visions. Fashion enthusiasts eagerly anticipate what the rest of London Fashion Week has in store.
Useful links:
1. British Fashion Council official website
2. London Fashion Week official website
