London Fashion Week on Sunday was a whirlwind of excitement and creativity, with a myriad of runway shows featuring esteemed designers Simone Rocha, Erdem, Christopher Kane, David Koma, Rejina Pyo, and Yuhan Wang. Despite moments of reflection and reverence in the front rows, the day was abuzz with over a dozen shows. FashionNetwork.com had the incredible opportunity to catch up with these six designers and delve into the inspiration behind their awe-inspiring collections.
Simone Rocha made a striking foray into menswear fashion, leaving audiences in awe with her groundbreaking collection. Known for her feminine aesthetic, Rocha flawlessly translated her signature style into menswear pieces that were a stunning fusion of femininity and masculinity. Tulle veils, pearl key chains, and floral earrings adorned the designs, earning Rocha well-deserved accolades. Notably, the collection featured some truly unique outfits, like a khaki green flight jacket and pants paired with black socks embroidered with delicate petals. It was a long-awaited triumph for Rocha, following her successful collaboration with H&M.
Erdem Moralıoğlu sought inspiration from the textile restoration department at the prestigious British Museum for his latest collection. Showcasing his artistic prowess, the collection showcased a modernist interpretation of old-world elegance. By using reimagined fabrics sourced from the museum’s archives, Erdem breathed new life into historical textiles. The attention to detail was remarkable, with a fabric copy of a conservation record even pinned to one of the chic pinafores. The show boasted a delightful blend of refined elegance and contemporary flair, thanks to prints of 17th-century etchings and collaborations with conservators from various other museums.
David Koma took his audience on an underwater adventure with a show held in the charming square beside his studio in Hackney, East London. Inspired by the work of esteemed biologist Sylvia Earle in deep-sea exploration, Koma crafted a collection that celebrated marine life. The designs featured captivating embellishments such as sequin starfish, octopus tentacles, and metallic seashell necklaces. True to Koma’s brand, the collection showcased his signature sexy and body-conscious style, with daring cut-outs and alluring one-shoulder designs revealing glimpses of exposed skin. It was a powerful exhibition of aquatic fashion at its finest.
Christopher Kane made a highly anticipated return to the runway, with his show taking place at the iconic Roundhouse music venue in north London. The designer’s lingerie-driven collection showcased his unabashed fascination with sensuality. Silk slips trimmed with delicate lace were juxtaposed with plastic bras and bodices, resulting in a daring and provocative aesthetic. Kane’s avant-garde experimentation extended to contrasting exterior bra cups and vibrant anatomical and muscular sketches adorning evening dresses. While his ideas were undeniably risky and innovative, some critics felt that the collection lacked a cohesive aesthetic.
Rejina Pyo’s collection, staged in a sleek new tower in Old Street, garnered mixed reviews. The minimalist designs, ranging from pantsuits to cotton trenches and ruched chiffon dresses, were impeccably clean and coherent. The collection embodied a polished and elegant aesthetic that caters to a sophisticated, career-oriented wardrobe. However, some felt that the lack of significant innovation or new ideas was a disappointment amidst the abundance of inspiring shows at London Fashion Week.
Yuhan Wang dedicated her collection to celebrating the achievements of famous female pilots. However, the connection between her designs and aviation was met with some skepticism. The collection showcased a whimsical fusion of frilly and frothy outfits, featuring lace suits paired with oversized jodhpurs and belted jackets styled with lace-up boots. The inclusion of see-through lace skirts and floral stockings juxtaposed with bomber jackets adorned with carnations resulted in a somewhat confusing aesthetic. The collection received a mix of both rave reviews and constructive criticism, ultimately falling short of certain expectations.
In summary, London Fashion Week on Sunday was a captivating display of creativity and artistry, featuring a diverse range of collections that left audiences in awe. From Simone Rocha’s groundbreaking menswear debut to Erdem’s restoration-inspired designs and Christopher Kane’s provocative lingerie-driven looks, the day was filled with jaw-dropping moments. While some designers astounded with their innovative and cohesive designs, others faced criticism for their lack of direction and originality. Nonetheless, the day served as a testament to the exceptional talent and boundless creativity within the London fashion scene.
Useful links:
1. London Fashion Week Official Website
2. FashionNetwork.com
