Loewe’s latest show, curated by Jonathan Anderson, showcased a collection that focused on the essence of fashion. The event took place at the stunning Chateau de Vincennes, where an exquisite white cube served as the backdrop, complemented by delicate confetti paper sculptures created by artist Lara Favaretto. The concept of reduction was evident in the clean lines and minimalist silhouettes of the garments, which were crafted from eye-catching suedes, leather, and recycled print dresses. Some dresses even incorporated unique details like doorknobs or ornate nails at the chest, adding a touch of eccentricity and playfulness.
Anderson’s exploration of cutting holes in dresses and coats, previously seen in Loewe’s menswear show, continued in this collection. Inspired by artist Julien Nguyen’s painting “The Guise of Fortune,” this technique created a visually striking effect with one arm akimbo. Anderson described the overall aesthetic as a blend of blurring, fragility, and celebratory gestures. The inclusion of door knobs and nails at the chest brought an emotional sensuality to the garments, enhancing their overall appeal.
In contrast to the vibrant primary colors of the paper sculptures, the collection featured pants, shorts, and tunics in muted shades of cock feathers, such as gray, white, and azure blue. The choice of Leonard Cohen’s haunting track “You Want It Darker” as the soundtrack further accentuated the collection’s mood. Anderson opened the show with a series of printed “relic” dresses, inspired by Gerhard Richter, emphasizing their origins outside of Loewe. He also showcased knitwear that incorporated removable stickers, exemplifying his skill for reinterpretation and reengineering.
One of the collection’s highlights was Loewe’s embrace of its Spanish heritage, particularly through the use of suede and leather. Calfskin shirt-dresses with band collars exuded elegance and coolness, while sandy-hued suede Edwardian-style coats displayed impeccable tailoring. The collection also featured a captivating array of clashing leather textures and a series of Puzzle totes and small handbags, inspired by Japanese basket weaving.
Loewe impressed with its footwear designs, offering a variety of cool and unique options. From slouchy boots reminiscent of D’Artagnan to scratchy suede Chelsea boots and stilettos crafted from different skins, the shoes added a distinct touch to the overall looks. Especially eye-catching were the high heels made from embroidered confetti paper.
Anderson reflected on Loewe’s history and the impact of the pandemic on his design approach. Initially hesitant to embrace Loewe’s leather heritage, he now sees it as an opportunity to restart and celebrate the brand’s identity. This collection solidified Loewe’s reputation as a leading suede house and established Anderson as the most influential designer in the fashion industry.
With an impressive fashion calendar spanning New York, London, Milan, and Paris, Loewe’s show at the Chateau de Vincennes stood out as the highlight of the season. Anderson’s work has propelled Loewe to the forefront of the industry, cementing his status as a visionary designer. Just as the Chateau de Vincennes witnessed the execution of spy Mata Hari over a century ago, it now serves as a symbol of the consecration of Anderson as a fashion visionary.
Here are two useful links related to the article:
1. [Loewe’s official website](https://www.loewe.com/)
2. [Information about the Chateau de Vincennes](https://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71520/le-chateau-de-vincennes)
