Loewe’s creative director, Jonathan Anderson, recently showcased his latest collection at Paris Fashion Week. Known for his impressive displays in the past, this particular show fell slightly short in comparison to his previous work. The women’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection appeared to be a rehash of his earlier menswear collection for Loewe.
Despite the collection’s lackluster reception, Anderson made an intriguing choice of invitation. He sent out gold metal plates featuring sculptures by renowned artist Lynda Benglis, primarily a busty mermaid. Benglis also contributed abstract sculptures resembling exploding tires, known as the ‘Elephant Necklace,’ and even created a water sculpture for the men’s show. However, the decision to have the models walk a considerable distance away from the audience hindered the overall impact of the looks.
The show commenced with floor-sweeping cable knits, followed by wide-leg pants paired with micro blouses, grandfather shirts, and vibrant knits. Many of these looks were accessorized with Benglis’ jewelry, highlighting Anderson’s fascination with her work. The collection aimed to emulate Benglis’ personal journey, beginning as a “sexual being,” transitioning to moments of recognition, and eventually disappearing from the scene.
Several notable pieces stood out within the collection, including curtain-like sheer dresses and mesh tubular cocktails. The main concept revolved around the cutting and dropping of waistlines, creating a unique silhouette. Leather coats were draped over one side and attached to matching handbags, adding a touch of creativity. With accessories like the Squeeze and Pebble Bucket bags, it is evident that Loewe is poised for success in terms of sales.
Anderson explained that his intention was to incorporate something fresh into the collection, drawing inspiration from the rhythm and silhouette of his previous menswear line. He praised Lynda Benglis for her ability to experiment with unconventional elements like glitter and wax, transitioning from being antagonistic to cerebral.
While this particular show may not have matched up to the exceptional standards set by Anderson’s previous presentations, it is essential to consider his demanding schedule. He is responsible for creating eight collections per year for both Loewe and his own brand, in addition to curating exhibitions. Given these circumstances, it is understandable that not every season will produce an exceptional show. Nevertheless, Anderson’s talent and creativity continue to shine through.
Useful links:
1. Loewe Official Website
2. Paris Fashion Week Official Website
