Lights out for Paris as Miu Miu, Xuly.Bët, and Ungaro took the spotlight in the closing shows of the women’s ready-to-wear shows for spring-summer 2023. Each brand presented their own unique vision of the troubled times the world is facing through their collections. Miu Miu called for simplicity, Xuly.Bët sounded the ecological alarm, and Ungaro brought positivity to the fashion world.
Miu Miu, under the creative direction of Miuccia Prada, showcased a collection that perfectly blended ease and sophistication, sportiness, and chicness. Classic pieces like jackets, coats, shirts, pleated skirts, and knitwear were skillfully reinterpreted, resulting in a quintessentially Prada Miu Miu collection that reflected a strong connection to the label’s flagship line shown in Milan the previous week.
The collection featured a mini silhouette achieved by layering white and grey t-shirts over ultra-fine beige or light grey knitwear. Men’s jackets were worn over bras, paired with pleated or wrap skirts in grey flannel and black wool. Nylon fabric, a staple of Miu Miu, took center stage in white shirts, skirts, and dresses with zips at the front or back, as well as dresses with gathered straps at the neckline. Nylon was also used as a lightweight windbreaker in collared shirts or in a khaki version worn inside out for a blouse effect.
Leather also played a significant role in this urban wardrobe. It appeared initially in small details like overskirts with large patch pockets, giving a fanny pack-like feel. The designer utilized worn leather to create sleeveless coats, waistcoats, and jackets, all featuring maxi pockets. Smooth, lighter leather crafted shirts, skirts, trousers, and shorts in various colors. There was even a variation where the same pieces were cut from faded denim to achieve a similar worn leather effect.
As the evening fell, the Miu Miu girl embraced transparency. Tops and skirts were created by layering a gossamer fabric, sometimes adorned with stones and crystals, adding a touch of sparkle.
Xuly.Bët, led by designer Lamine Badian Kouyaté, provided a change of scenery with a memorable and energetic show held in the heart of Paris. Originally planned elsewhere, the location was moved, but it didn’t dampen the excitement. Models confidently strutted down the catwalk wearing transparent high-heeled sandals with gaiters and split skirts, shimmering dresses and tops, and white Catwoman suits. The brand’s name, Xuly.Bët, meaning “open your eyes” in Wolof, perfectly captured the essence of the show. For 30 years, Kouyaté has been using recycled second-hand clothes to create one-of-a-kind pieces and raising awareness about sustainability.
Ungaro embraced lightness and color, injecting beauty into a world that desperately needs it. Inspired by Gauguin’s trip to Haiti, creative director Kobi Halperin aimed to create something special and exotic, reminding people that paradise can exist within ourselves. The collection drew from the brand’s archives while reflecting the evolution of the modern woman. Effortless and airy, the wardrobe focused on movement, featuring fringed dresses, vibrant yellow and turquoise garments with the iconic Diva pleat, light blouses adorned with embroidered flowers, and vestal draped outfits with lush carnation flower motifs. White cotton lace jackets allowed for air circulation, while stretch silk tops were paired with fringed cropped trousers. The collection exuded a sense of lightness and fluidity.
As the marathon of women’s ready-to-wear shows for spring-summer 2023 came to an end, Miu Miu, Xuly.Bët, and Ungaro left a lasting impression on the fashion industry. From Miu Miu’s understated elegance to Xuly.Bët’s sustainability message and Ungaro’s pursuit of beauty and joy, these collections not only showcased the designers’ creativity but also provided a platform to address the challenges we face today. Fashion has the power to make a statement, and these shows proved just that.
For more information on these collections and the designers behind them, please visit:
– Miu Miu Official Website
– Xuly.Bët Official Website
