LFW Saturday: Exploring Unconventional Style with JW Anderson, Roksanda, and Molly Goddard
London Fashion Week’s Saturday lineup featured three acclaimed designers, each with their own distinct interpretation of fashion. With a shared goal of pushing boundaries and experimenting with unconventional elements, JW Anderson, Roksanda, and Molly Goddard captivated audiences with their innovative collections.
JW Anderson, known for his avant-garde approach, chose the iconic Roundhouse in Chalk Farm as the backdrop for his show. As a surprise and playful twist, the designer incorporated Play-Doh, a nostalgic childhood material, into his invitation and opening looks. The garments themselves were designed to mold onto the body, creating a one-of-a-kind experience for the wearer. Biker jackets, hoodies, and shorts resembling modeling clay graced the runway, exuding a newfound attitude and toughness. The collection also showcased “total knits,” with summer dresses in architectural shapes and knitted sponge material for added texture. Vibrant colors such as fire-engine red and Trypan blue breathed life into the designs, which were stylishly paired with crochet shoes. Anderson’s inclusion of padded coated nylon surgeon’s smocks and coordinating pants redefined traditional silhouettes, establishing a focus on boundary-pushing ready-to-wear pieces.
At the Barbican, a renowned example of New Brutalist architecture, Roksanda presented a collection that seamlessly blended beauty with the surrounding concrete landscape. The show began with an enchanting operatic performance by soprano Isabelle Peters, who wore a breathtaking lilac plissé cloak dress. Models graced the concrete half-moon courtyard, showcasing Roksanda’s dramatic dresses and coats. Masculine tailoring, embodied by sleeveless redingotes and Edwardian top-coats, juxtaposed against ruched and grandly gathered gowns made from crushed plissé silk and textured jacquards. Drawing inspiration from her Balkan heritage, Roksanda paid homage to monasteries she had visited during her youth. Golden thread and fil coupé recreated frescoes found in these monasteries on printed lamina fabrics. The collection received a standing ovation, honoring the designer’s artistic vision and the soprano’s exquisite performance.
Molly Goddard transformed the prestigious Christie’s auction house in Mayfair into a runway that celebrated British style through the centuries. Departing from her usual gym spaces, Goddard showcased a more formal and ladylike approach while maintaining her signature touch of playfulness. Referencing Regency grandeur, 1950s underwear, and Victorian bedding, the collection explored the use of interior linings to create unique details. Grand gowns, debutante dresses, and ballet tutus had their linings turned inside out, resulting in captivating designs. Below-the-knee skirts featuring horizontally pleated ruffles at the waist were paired with ornate piped bras and prim cardigans, evoking a sense of elegance. For eveningwear, Goddard emphasized interior construction, incorporating wadded linings, trims, and cotton grosgrain to the back of many looks. The collection exuded a deconstructed Dickensian aesthetic, reminiscent of vintage ball gowns with layers of tulle and multiple rows of hook and eyes. In a characteristic move, Goddard brought a contemporary edge by incorporating sneakers and transforming golden court shoes into sporty trainers or bold platforms. Choosing Christie’s as the venue added an extra layer of significance, with Goddard appreciating the historic and artistic context as masterpieces surrounded the models during the exhibition set-up process.
Overall, LFW Saturday was a testament to the boundless creativity and innovation within the fashion industry. JW Anderson, Roksanda, and Molly Goddard presented collections that pushed the boundaries of traditional style, leaving a lasting impression on both the audience and the fashion landscape as a whole.
For more information on JW Anderson, visit their official website here.
To explore Roksanda’s latest collections, visit their official website here.
