The documentary series “Kingdom of Dreams” premiered in France at the A Shaded View of Fashion film festival in Paris. Directed by Ian Bonhôte and Peter Ettedgui, the four-part series has been dubbed the Game of Thrones of Fashion, delving into the history of fashion from the 1990s. It specifically focuses on the acquisitions of major fashion houses by entrepreneurs Bernard Arnault and Francois and François-Henri Pinault. These acquisitions include iconic brands such as Christian Dior, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Yves Saint Laurent. What sets this series apart is the inclusion of interviews with key fashion designers like John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, and Tom Ford, offering valuable insight into their creative processes.
However, while “Kingdom of Dreams” presents a visually captivating account of the fashion industry, it has faced criticism for its narrow Anglo-Saxon perspective. The series places heavy emphasis on the mentioned designers and their contributions, disregarding the huge impact of other influential designers such as Helmut Lang, Miuccia Prada, Dries Van Noten, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rei Kawakubo. The fact that the premiere took place at Rei Kawakubo’s cultural center in Paris makes this omission particularly perplexing.
The inspiration for “Kingdom of Dreams” comes from Dana Thomas’ book, “Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster,” which criticizes the consolidation of ownership within the fashion industry. However, this argument fails to recognize the role that Arnault and Pinault have played in creating employment opportunities for countless artisans, who have been crucial to their success.
Despite its flaws, “Kingdom of Dreams” offers a fascinating journey into fashion history. It highlights pivotal moments within the industry, such as Galliano’s groundbreaking collections, McQueen’s provocative shows, and Jacobs’ controversial Grunge collection. These moments illuminate the often intense battle between commerce and creativity for different brands and fashion houses.
Commissioned by Sky and backed by Fremantle Films, the documentary series has already been released in the UK and will soon be available in France and the US. Its premiere at the A Shaded View of Fashion festival marked the 14th edition of the event, which featured other notable works like “Klash! L’Art entre acte” by Franck Perrin and “Boom For Real” by Sara Driver.
While the series has attracted attention, prominent figures like François-Henri Pinault and Bernard Arnault have chosen to remain silent about their portrayal in the fashion industry. Their insights would undoubtedly be valuable in further understanding their roles and perspectives.
“Kingdom of Dreams” raises thought-provoking questions about the motivations and impact of entrepreneurs like Bernard Arnault and the Pinaults. It paints a complex picture of the fashion world, where creativity and commerce are intertwined. Ultimately, whether Arnault is seen as a white knight or a black knight is a matter of interpretation.
Useful links:
1. A Shaded View of Fashion Film Festival
2. Sky
