Kim Jones, the British designer, has found his stride with the recent fall/winter 2021 couture show for Fendi. After three collections, Jones presented an impeccably refined display of clothing and exceptional taste. The show opened with a stunning redingote in a chalk, ecru, and white jacquard, paired with a high collar and worn by a radiant model with a chignon, setting the tone for the rest of the show. The video presentation took place inside a replica of Fendi’s iconic headquarters, showcasing the brand’s power and influence.
The video began with a model spotting an elegant suitor through a narrow passage, dressed in a chalk floral Nehru jacket. The same fabric reappeared in a ruched gown in the following scene. As Max Richter’s spiritual choral piece ‘Arbenita’ played in the background, the diverse cast walked in front of metaphysical paintings, creating an aura of mystique and beauty. The models were adorned with stylish accessories, such as mock marble-inlay clutches and amphorae earrings featuring the iconic double-‘F’ logo, exuding confidence and elegance.
While there were a few moments where the clothing veered towards being too sheer and risqué, the show quickly corrected itself. One standout composition featured four models wearing intricately paneled guipure that resembled fantasy Renaissance armor, showcasing Jones’ creative vision. Similar to his previous couture show, which celebrated mother-daughter duos, Jones also included veteran supermodels on the runway. Christy Turlington stunned in a refined lace column gown, while Amber Valletta glided in a grand gown with a train, featuring a marbleized print.
The show even included a cameo appearance by Kate Moss, followed by a captivating shot of the entire cast, resembling statuesque Roman empresses against a backdrop that evoked the modern Eternal City, evoking the artwork of De Chirico. It is interesting to note that despite Fendi only renting the Roman palazzo, the brand has successfully incorporated its multi-arch structure into its global image. In this collection, Jones even used arches as support in striking wedges.
While Jones primarily focuses on womenswear, his couture show incorporated various menswear-inspired elements, possibly as a response to Silvia Fendi’s successful menswear collection in June. Silvia’s video was shot in the actual palazzo by her son-in-law.
In conclusion, after two shows that fell short of expectations, Kim Jones has delivered a special moment with his latest collection for Fendi. Unveiled in Paris but conceptualized in Rome, this outing was undeniably impressive. It is evident that Jones, known for his success as the menswear designer of Dior, has the range and talent to excel in womenswear couture as well.
Useful Links:
1. Fendi Couture Fall 2021 Collection
2. Fendi Couture Fall 2021 Review
