Kering, the luxury fashion group, is pushing forward with its restructuring plans for Italian luxury menswear brand Brioni, which it acquired in 2011. The company had previously announced in April that it would be cutting 320 jobs at Brioni. These job cuts will primarily impact Brioni’s facilities in the Abruzzo region of central Italy, specifically in Penne, Montebello di Bertona, and Civitella Casanova, where the label’s shirt-making and knitwear workshops will eventually be closed down.
A meeting was held at Italy’s Economic Development Ministry to discuss Brioni’s restructuring plans, attended by representatives from the Labor Ministry, Lombardy and Abruzzo regional authorities, and labor unions. Brioni’s management reiterated its commitment to implementing an industrial plan for the years 2021-2025, with the aim of rationalizing organizational costs and reallocating production.
Brioni has been grappling with overcapacity in manufacturing for several years, due to significant shifts in the high-end formal menswear market. The COVID-19 pandemic further aggravated this issue. However, Kering’s recent quarterly results indicate that Brioni’s sales have returned to pre-pandemic levels, signaling a potential recovery for the brand.
During the meeting, union representatives revealed that 200 employees from Brioni’s renowned tailoring workshops in Penne have agreed to leave the company. However, they will continue to work for Brioni until October 2022, benefiting from the Italian government’s special Covid-19 aid package.
The union representatives expressed concerns over Kering’s management of Brioni since its acquisition, alleging that the focus has primarily been on debt repayment without a solid plan to relaunch the iconic Italian brand. They urged the French group to invest in craftsmanship and manufacturing, which are the true assets of the “made-in-Italy” label. The unions emphasized the importance of technological investments that would align Brioni with the group, while cautioning against the potential loss of craftsmanship skills that could ultimately diminish the brand.
Currently, Brioni is under the leadership of Mehdi Benabadji, who assumed the position in 2020. In 2018, Austrian designer Norbert Stumpfl was appointed as the head of style, collaborating with Hollywood star and brand ambassador Brad Pitt to create a capsule collection. Brioni recently opened a store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills and introduced a new store concept called “Brioni Atelier” in Frankfurt, Germany. This new concept pays homage to the brand’s longstanding tailoring workshops, which are now facing significant downsizing.
Useful links:
1. Kering – Brioni official website
2. Vogue Business – Brioni: Inside the Italian fashion revamp
