Kenzo, the luxury fashion brand owned by LVMH, has recently unveiled its early collections and archives in a special exhibition held as part of LVMH’s ‘Private Days’ initiative. The exhibition takes place in a historic building located at 18 rue Vivienne in Paris, near Kenzo’s first-ever boutique. This building, which has served as Kenzo’s headquarters and ateliers since 2007, has a rich history as it was once owned by the nephew of Jean-Baptiste Colbert, a renowned supporter of French arts and manufacturing.
The theme of the exhibition is ‘Savoir Faire Rêver’, which translates to ‘knowing how to make dreams’ in English. The purpose of the exhibition is to showcase the brand’s expertise and heritage. One of the highlights of the exhibition is the juxtaposition of silhouettes from Kenzo’s first collections with looks from the label’s current creative director, Nigo. This cleverly demonstrates the brand’s evolution over time.
Upon entering the exhibition, visitors are immediately immersed in a vibrant and exciting hip-hop atmosphere. With its lively printed patterns and a kaleidoscope of bright colors, the exhibition captures the essence of Kenzo’s aesthetic. The exhibition takes visitors on a journey through the history of the label, which was founded in 1970 by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada. Originally named Jungle Jap, as a tribute to the urban jungle of Paris and the artistry of Henri ‘Le Douanier’ Rousseau, the label later adopted the name Kenzo. The exhibition prominently showcases the label’s iconic tiger symbol, seen on the trench coats of the Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
Cotton is another significant element of Kenzo’s heritage, initially used by Takada due to economic constraints but later embraced as an aesthetic choice. The fabric’s breathability is highlighted through many of the garments on display. The exhibition also features Takada’s famous T-cut with butterfly sleeves, designed to liberate the silhouette.
Travel played a fundamental role in inspiring Takada, who dreamed of far-off lands and the Western world. After studying at the Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, he embarked on a journey to his favorite city, Paris. During this journey, Takada embraced and absorbed various local techniques that influenced his designs.
The exhibition showcases several looks that pay homage to different cultures and regions, demonstrating Takada’s ability to seamlessly incorporate diverse influences into his designs. Examples include a cherry red apron dress with topstitching and plant embroidery inspired by the Chinese Manchu dynasty, as well as a blue coat with a floral print reminiscent of traditional Cossack clothing.
A standout piece in the exhibition is a patchwork ruffled wedding dress in pink and gold tones, showcasing Takada’s exceptional craftsmanship. Although known for challenging the norms of haute couture, Takada applied garment-making techniques borrowed from haute couture to create this dress. Its preservation in excellent condition is due to meticulous storage practices.
Kenzo takes the archiving of its past collections seriously, meticulously controlling humidity and light levels in its storage rooms. The brand actively seeks out old pieces from second-hand sites and vintage shops to rebuild its heritage. With its presence in various sectors such as perfumes, bed linen, and ready-to-wear clothing, Kenzo has created a living representation of the brand’s image.
In conclusion, the exhibition successfully captures the exuberance and colorful imagination of Kenzo Takada, providing visitors with an immersive experience of the brand’s rich history and innovative designs.
Useful links:
– [Kenzo Official Website](https://www.kenzo.com/)
– [LVMH Official Website](https://www.lvmh.com/)
