Julien Dossena’s latest collection for Gaultier haute couture was a continuation of the ongoing project of capturing the spirit of the brand’s founder each season. Known as the enfant terrible of Paris, Gaultier’s legacy has always been about shocking the fashion world. However, this collection didn’t provoke the same reaction.
Dossena stayed true to Gaultier’s tradition of clever show terminology by naming each of the 33 looks after iconic Parisian neighborhoods, bars, or clubs. The show kicked off with Natalia Vodianova donning a gilded military uniform, reminiscent of Michel Ney receiving a medal. This look, called École Militaire, set the tone for what was to come.
Among the standout pieces was a stunning gold metal cocktail dress adorned with fabric flowers, inspired by the vibrant Goutte d’Or neighborhood. Other highlights included chic chalk stripe pants suits with angled pockets and diagonal hems, a nod to Parc de Sceaux and the term “Garde de Sceaux,” meaning the Minister of Justice.
Dossena also paid tribute to Gaultier’s love for tartan with a décolleté plaid dress embellished with pearls. However, there were moments when Dossena’s work at the house of Rabanne seemed to overshadow the collection, particularly with an over-reliance on chain metal. It’s worth noting that both Rabanne and Gaultier are owned by the Puig family of Barcelona.
The collection also celebrated Gaultier’s affinity for gender-bending, featuring a couple wearing a double dress. The woman wore a silver mesh cocktail dress with an elongated train, which her boyfriend elegantly carried folded in his arms. Madonna, a long-time muse of Gaultier, also made an appearance in the collection with several conical bras.
However, as the show progressed, the concept started to feel more like a gimmick rather than a genuine celebration of fashion. It relied too heavily on clichés and inside jokes, losing its originality and joyfulness. Perhaps it’s time for the brand to explore new directions and push the boundaries further.
Overall, Gaultier haute couture by Julien Dossena showcased a mixture of paying homage to Gaultier’s legacy while also incorporating Dossena’s own creative vision. While there were standout moments, the collection as a whole could have been stronger. Nevertheless, it remains an important contribution to the ongoing story of the house of Gaultier.
Useful Links:
1. Vogue – Gaultier Haute Couture Spring 2022 Collection
2. Business of Fashion – Gaultier Haute Couture Spring 2022 Review
