John Galliano concluded the Paris haute couture season in style with an awe-inspiring collection for Maison Margiela. His show transported the audience to a bygone era of Paris, reminiscent of the works of Balzac and Victor Hugo. The spectators were enthralled, erupting in deafening applause and stomping their feet, urging Galliano to take a bow. However, in line with the heritage of Maison Margiela, Galliano remained concealed behind a golden curtain backstage, evoking the mystique and intrigue that defines the brand.
The setting for the show was a vaulted warehouse beneath the renowned Pont Alexandre III. It was transformed into a scene depicting French and eccentric archetypes. The stage was adorned with scruffy café tables, broken lights, and police wanted posters, while cheap chairs and a battered pool table completed the atmosphere. Bistro mirrors cleverly turned into flat screens, enhancing the immersive experience for the audience.
The show commenced with a captivating performance by French singer Lucky Love, who roamed the space in a gent’s top-coat. Later, he stripped down, revealing his torso and missing left arm, and sang his cult hit ‘Now I Don’t Need Your Love’. The screens then projected a crime drama and jewelry heist, featuring stilettos on broken glass, couples tied up in corsets, and a thief presenting a pearl necklace to the heroine in a dingy Latin Quarter brasserie.
The spectacle continued with the entrance of a young dandy wearing pleated pants and a micro waist corset, captivating onlookers as he emoted along the Seine under pouring rain. He continued his march under the arches of the enchanting Pont Alexandre III, leaving the seated guests at bistro tables outside in awe before entering the warehouse. The cast of characters included individuals reminiscent of Pigalle a century ago, such as a World War I veteran turned spiv and burlesque dancers that could have stepped out of a painting by Toulouse-Lautrec himself.
The cast exuded an otherworldly aura, with waxy makeup, deranged eyes, and a haunting presence. They seemed like the ghosts of the Seine or the residents who still reside along the river’s banks today, with many of them sleeping under the very bridge where the show took place.
Galliano’s collection showcased his exceptional artistry. Padded cocoon jackets adorned with shards and strands of tulle, opulent gold satin dresses with exquisite bustles, and a decayed countess in a corrugated cardboard gown created an atmosphere of decadence and decay. The inclusion of a trio of burlesque dancers dressed in see-through black negligees over hand-painted abstract expressionist body stockings added sensuality and intrigue to the presentation.
Among the madness, there were several standout pieces. For women, the collection included supremely sexy knitted and beaded columns, scrunched-up herringbone wool blazers, and see-through corset dresses that are bound to influence fashion trends. The looks were completed with degrading tights, giving the impression that the Margiela muses were old, worn dolls. For men, exquisitely tailored Demob’ chalk-stripe suits and swaggering great coats worn by reprobates with motorbike goggles stole the spotlight.
The show reached its climax with Gwendoline Christie, adorned in a latex-like crinoline over a Delph blue corset. Her neck and hands were adorned with a porcelain neck collar and skeleton-shaped gloves, enhancing the overall theatricality of the collection.
In a couture season that seemed to prioritize front-row attendees rather than the catwalk, the presence of celebrities like Kris and Kylie Jenner and Kim Kardashian seemed inconsequential. Three decades ago, Galliano created one of the most unforgettable fashion moments of the ’90s in Sao Schlumberger’s mansion in St. Germain. Once again, on the banks of the Seine, he crafted a fashion spectacle that can be considered the best of this decade so far.
Galliano’s journey has been filled with challenges. In 2011, he faced public backlash and professional consequences after an offensive drunken rant outside his apartment. But this show felt like his ultimate resurrection. The cast of the show, much like Galliano himself, triumphed through rebellion and audacity, resulting in resounding applause and feet stomping in a frenzy at the finale.
In conclusion, John Galliano’s collection for Maison Margiela served as a perfect finale to the Paris haute couture season. The show’s captivating storytelling, breathtaking garments, and rebellious spirit will undoubtedly be remembered as one of the most memorable moments in fashion history. Galliano once again showcased his genius and solidified his position as a true visionary within the fashion world.
Useful Links:
1. Vogue – John Galliano
2. Maison Margiela Official Website
