The Jil Sander show on Friday night had an ethereal and spiritual atmosphere that captivated the audience. The seating arrangement resembled a cathedral, with guests sitting in semi circles in a darkened space, only lit up when the first models appeared. The collection showcased a departure from Jil Sander’s famous minimalism, but it was not a disappointment. Crystal rosettes, hand-painted fruit images, and golden boots were unexpected elements that added a touch of brilliance to the collection. Despite these additions, the silhouette and line of the collection stayed true to the aesthetic and DNA of Jil Sander, solidifying its position as the most influential German fashion house of the past fifty years.
As the audience settled into their seats, a hush fell over the space. There was a noticeable absence of the usual pre-show chatter, with only Alice Coltrane’s The Wisdom Eye softly playing in the background. The show began with the opening chords of a Björk mash-up, accompanied by models strutting down the runway in motorbike jackets. These jackets defined the collection, with their power shoulders, subtly inflated volume, and artistic detailing. The models moved with speed and acceleration, evoking the feeling of riding a motorbike.
However, the standout pieces of the collection were the coats, parkas, and ankle-length dresses crafted from dense cashmere and spongy felt. Voluminous and available in a range of colors, these pieces showcased the craftsmanship and attention to detail that Jil Sander is known for. Paired with chunky sneakers and space-age boots in various tones, the models wore skull caps that added an intergalactic touch to the looks.
Luke and Lucie Meier, the creative minds behind the Jil Sander collection, explained their inspiration for this season. The designs were influenced by a conversation they had about their decision to become designers in the late 90s. They wanted to mix different references and cultures, resulting in a collection that embodies cross-pollination with rigor. They aimed to evoke a positive feeling, reminiscent of when they felt optimistic about technology entering their lives.
Eccentricity was another element that stood out in this collection. Hand-painted cherries and shells adorned felt totes and tunics, while bold costume jewelry added a touch of drama. Chunky silver bracelets, necklaces, clasps, and chokers added to the casually melted and linked together aesthetic. The finale of the collection showcased expertly embroidered pieces that enhanced the extended shapes.
Luke further explained their approach, highlighting the fusion of music and fashion. He mentioned Björk, who understood how different cultures meet in music and how a song can evoke certain emotions. The Meiers wanted their clothes to have the same effect. Since taking creative control of Jil Sander five years ago, they have consistently delivered must-see shows. This latest collection stands out as the most original of the international fashion season thus far, marking the halfway point.
[Useful links:](https://www.jilsander.com/)[Vogue Article on Jil Sander Spring 2022 Collection]
