Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Haider Ackermann: An Exploration of Classic Techniques
The highly anticipated Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture collection by Haider Ackermann took center stage on Wednesday evening, marking the fourth edition of this ongoing project. Esteemed designers are invited to create unique couture collections in honor of the legendary designer, Jean Paul Gaultier.
Although Jean Paul Gaultier himself was not present, the collection presented by Ackermann showcased a concise, elegant, and impeccably tailored display of craftsmanship. However, it lacked the same level of vibrancy and excitement that characterized Gaultier’s iconic shows.
A notable aspect of the event was the significantly smaller audience size compared to traditional Gaultier shows. This resulted in a more intimate atmosphere, drawing in a host of notable figures such as Kylie Jenner, Timothée Chalamet, Tilda Swinton, and Catherine Deneuve.
The venue itself was transformed for the occasion, with the main floor painted in a soft powder blue hue, reflecting the minimalist aesthetic of the invitation. Ackermann’s opening looks predominantly featured black garments, including exquisitely tailored tuxedos, jackets, and bustiers made from lightweight wool. The debut pieces were particularly striking, combining redingote silhouettes with pleated breastplates reminiscent of the iconic Madame Grès. In fact, Ackermann paid such homage to Grès that one might wonder if he had accidentally merged the two designers’ styles.
Surprisingly, the collection offered fewer of the signature Jean Paul Gaultier elements, such as sailor jerseys, cross-dressing, street chic, and tartan. Traditional Gaultier staples like trenches and kilts were also notably absent. Nevertheless, it was refreshing to see that Ackermann did not feel obligated to slavishly emulate Gaultier’s design canon. There were a few nods to Gaultier’s iconic conical bra, which Ackermann reinterpreted as petal-like shapes in icy blue or turquoise faille. He also subtly incorporated corsetry elements, discreetly hidden beneath classic tuxedo pants and bras.
Ackermann showcased his ability to master classical techniques such as plissé, draping, and impeccable tailoring. This collection’s emphasis on classic couture shapes set it apart from Ackermann’s usual avant-garde draping style.
Alongside the stunning womenswear, the show also featured exceptional menswear looks. From a remarkable dandy turquoise mess jacket finished with micro pleated trim to a dazzling metallic embroidered coat and jacket paired with white jeans, these looks would be perfect for the red carpet, especially if Timothée Chalamet were to star in a musical biopic. It’s worth noting that Ackermann gained fame for dressing Chalamet in a striking red satin ensemble for the Venice Film Festival.
As with any experimentation, some of Ackermann’s attempts in this collection fell short. Particularly, the tops encrusted with spiky feathers resembled duck eggs attacked by sea urchins. However, there were also moments of brilliance, such as a zippered bomber in Pacific blue faille paired with a long crepe skirt that deserved a standing ovation on its own.
The show was accompanied by an intriguing soundtrack, featuring Joana Preiss reading words written by Sophie Fontanel about the current uprising against the Iranian theocratic government. This was followed by a rendition of “Baraye” by Shervin Hajipour, a song that encapsulated the spirit of the revolt. The soundtrack took an unexpected turn, transitioning into a peculiar mechanical hum, evoking the sensation of a submarine breaking down and sinking.
As the grand finale approached, Haider Ackermann embraced Jean Paul Gaultier, and the two walked down the runway together, with Gaultier beaming. This heartwarming gesture has become a tradition in Gaultier’s house, as he has done the same for each of the four guest designer shows.
While the Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture collection by Haider Ackermann may have deviated from expectations, it showcased Ackermann’s ability to command classical techniques and demonstrate his unique perspective on couture. By venturing into Gaultier’s realm, Ackermann proved that he is a bona fide couturier capable of delivering exceptional craftsmanship and reimagining traditional approaches to fashion.
