A turning point has arrived for the Japanese fashion industry with the deaths of iconic designers Kenzo Takada and Issey Miyake. These two legends shaped an era and revolutionized the Parisian catwalks in the 1970s and ’80s. Their creative minds were unparalleled, and their passing signifies the end of an era, leaving a void that emerging talents aspire to fill.
One such talent is Takuya Morikawa, a graduate of Tokyo’s renowned Bunka Fashion College. His debut collection at Paris Fashion Week two years ago showcased streetwear-inspired tailoring that caught the industry’s attention. Morikawa dreams of achieving global success, and showcasing his designs at such a prestigious event is a significant step in realizing his aspirations. He spent eight years working at Issey Miyake’s studio, where he not only learned about traditional craft methods but also contributed to runway collections and the famous “Pleats Please” line.
The passing of Issey Miyake this summer was a great loss for Morikawa, but he encourages younger designers not to be disheartened. He believes it is crucial for them to continue pushing boundaries and not let the deaths of these iconic designers negatively impact the fashion world. Nigo, another Japanese designer who gained fame in the 1990s with his streetwear brand A Bathing Ape, has also received recognition as he was named artistic director at Kenzo following the death of its founder, Kenzo Takada.
Another Japanese label experiencing international success is Sacai, founded by Chitose Abe in 1999. Abe became the first guest couture designer for Jean Paul Gaultier, solidifying her reputation as a powerful force in the fashion industry.
The fashion landscape has evolved significantly, presenting new challenges for emerging designers. With a vast range of styles available, it has become harder for them to capture global attention. Sachiko Aihara, the president of Bunka Fashion College, recognizes these difficulties. She explains that the fashion world has changed, and designers now need to incorporate business acumen to succeed in establishing competitive brands.
Mariko Nakayama, a seasoned stylist in Tokyo’s fashion scene, vividly remembers the impact of Comme des Garcons’ designs and how they gave her “goosebumps.” Nakayama agrees that the industry has transformed and highlights the era of editing, where designers make modern tweaks to classic shapes and patterns to create new and innovative designs.
To thrive in the fashion industry, many Japanese designers believe that working in fashion capitals like Paris, London, New York, or Milan is crucial. Studying abroad provides designers with an opportunity to learn and gain new perspectives. Aya Takeshima, who studied at Central Saint Martins in London, emphasizes the importance of understanding different perspectives and gaining independence as a designer.
Recognizing these advantages, Bunka Fashion College plans to offer scholarships for studying abroad as part of its 100th-anniversary celebrations next year. Natalia Sato, a student at Bunka, acknowledges the significant impact that Miyake and the old guard of Japanese designers had on the fashion world. She worries that the foundation they built might be destroyed with their passing. However, she also sees it as a turning point that could open doors for new creative opportunities and the creation of new values.
Japanese fashion has reached a turning point. The loss of iconic designers Kenzo Takada and Issey Miyake signifies the end of an era, but it also presents an opportunity for emerging talents to make their mark. These talented designers, like Takuya Morikawa and Chitose Abe, aim to carry the torch and continue the legacy of Japanese fashion on the global stage. The fashion landscape has evolved, with new challenges and a vast array of styles available. However, Japanese designers are resilient and adaptable, finding ways to stay relevant and innovative. By studying abroad and incorporating business acumen, they can establish competitive brands and succeed in the ever-changing world of fashion. This turning point in Japanese fashion is not an endpoint but a chance to create new values and push boundaries further.
Useful links:
1. Bunka Fashion College
2. Sacai
