Milan Fashion Week once again showcased an array of innovative and creative designers who are leaving their mark on the industry. Among them were Tomo Koizumi, Vitelli, and Shuting Qiu, who presented collections filled with bursts of exuberance and originality.
Tomo Koizumi, renowned for his voluminous and whimsical designs, delivered a show that paid homage to the iconic brand Dolce & Gabbana. Using vibrant colors, layers of organza and satin, and exaggerated silhouettes, Koizumi demonstrated his creativity by incorporating printed silks from the archives of the Italian luxury label. The inclusion of multicolored ribbon corsets, rainbow fabric ruffled sleeves, and tulle trains created a captivating and joyful spectacle.
This collaboration with Dolce & Gabbana provided Koizumi with the opportunity to experiment with new materials, techniques, and colors. For his autumn/winter 2023/24 collection, he skillfully utilized shiny satin fabric to construct three-dimensional designs with stunning color gradations. However, it was his sculptural creations made from polyester organza that truly showcased his talent. From crinoline dresses to Harlequin-inspired outfits, Koizumi’s designs served as a celebration of artistry and creativity.
Vitelli, a rising name in the “Made in Italy” scene, presented a tactile collection that focused on the richness of textures. Incorporating a mix of knitwear and other fabrics, the brand revealed their dedication to research and experimentation. Founder and creative director Mauro Simionato explained their utilization of dormant denim stocks, which were softened to mimic the feel of felt. Additionally, they incorporated fresh wool fabrics, resulting in unique pieces brought to life through various knitting techniques and treatments.
Taking influence from streetwear, subculture, and art, Vitelli begins each collection with the fabric itself, building a unique and distinct aesthetic around it. The brand has also collaborated with others, including Collina Strada, where they produced special fabrics using recycled yarns, making a statement at New York Fashion Week.
Shuting Qiu returned to the Milanese catwalks with a dazzling collection that was truly a feast for the eyes. Her designs were characterized by their bold colors, patterns, prints, and embellishments. Qiu skillfully combined her signature nylon tights and jumpsuits with patchwork garments, incorporating precious details and embellishments. Salvaged fabrics from her previous collections were transformed into short dresses with flared sleeves, displaying Qiu’s exceptional sense of color and rhythm.
The collection featured playful layering, with bras and underwear adorned with stones layered over graphic playsuits and second-skin knits. Qiu’s designs served as a vibrant expression of pop exuberance, filled with creativity and joy.
Overall, Milan Fashion Week provided a platform for these designers to bring their unique visions and creative talents to center stage. Their collections were a testament to their innovation, craftsmanship, and dedication to pushing boundaries within the fashion industry. With their fresh and exciting approaches, Tomo Koizumi, Vitelli, and Shuting Qiu have undoubtedly left a lasting impression on the fashion world.
Useful links:
1. Tomo Koizumi Milan Fashion Week Review
2. Vitelli Milan Fashion Week Review
