Max Mara’s creative director, Ian Griffiths, was honored with an honorary doctorate in London earlier this month. This prestigious recognition of his contribution to the fashion industry coincided with the unveiling of his latest collection for Max Mara SS24 in Milan. Griffiths drew inspiration from the military but added a pacifist twist to create a unique and powerful collection.
The Max Mara SS24 collection featured perfectly sculpted uniforms and workwear, taking cues from the UK’s Women’s Land Army of World War II. Griffiths believes that women are strongest when united and organized into connected teams, and this philosophy was evident in the collection’s designs. The garments showcased a utilitarian yet chic aesthetic, with features like deep patch pockets, shoulder flaps, and mannish high collars.
A notable departure from Max Mara’s signature cashmere fabrics, the SS24 collection incorporated more cotton. The fabrics used, including drill, gabardine, and poplin, were garment dyed to create a unique feel and coloration for each item. To further enhance the collection’s theme, Griffiths even included images of his own garden in the mood board.
The fashion show took place in the historic Rotonda della Besana, a medieval hospital, where models weaved around the towering space. Accompanied by a military jazz band playing a vibrant drum-driven track called “Bandleader Breakdown” by VideoHelper, the models exuded strength and confidence. Many of the models carried bags resembling camera or binocular cases, but instead, they held lipsticks and iPhones. The collection also showcased the iconic Ludmilla buttonless sheath coats for which Max Mara is known.
Ian Griffiths is widely recognized as the master of Max Mara’s refined and quietly luxurious aesthetic. The brand recently appointed Yara Shahidi, the breakout star of “Black-ish” and a close friend of Michelle Obama, as its elegant ambassador. Shahidi was also the esteemed guest at a dinner hosted by Max Mara in collaboration with Vogue at the exclusive gentleman’s club, La Società del Giardino.
Griffiths described his vision for the show, stating, “I wanted this show to be more about turning swords into ploughshares and spears into pruning hooks.” His collection successfully combined military-inspired designs with a pacifist message, showcasing Max Mara’s commitment to both style and substance.
Useful links:
1. Max Mara website
2. Vogue website
