Hispanic influences were front and center on Day 4 of New York Fashion Week as Carolina Herrera and Palomo Spain took the runway by storm with their stunning shows. While both collections drew inspiration from Hispanic culture, they showcased a stark contrast in vision.
Carolina Herrera, led by creative director Wes Gordon, looked to the life of Empress Sissi of Austria-Hungary for inspiration. Gordon expertly incorporated aristocratic elements into the collection, creating an imperial showcase at the ballroom of the Plaza Hotel. The collection aimed to capture Sissi’s renowned combination of discipline and grandeur.
Rather than taking a literal approach, Gordon presented calico gowns paired with layered bolero jacket tops adorned with fabric roses. Ruched silk dresses in black and white with elegant trains added a touch of sophistication fit for a grand ball. The influence of the Habsburgs, the ruling family of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, was evident in Swarovski crystal-encrusted oatmeal suits and bouffant dresses.
Carolina Herrera has established itself as the go-to brand for women seeking fashion that exudes poise, polish, and a touch of pizzazz. Gordon introduced stunning Photoshop floral prints, showcased in grand gowns with portrait necklines, curvy cocktail dresses, and flared pants paired with silk blouses. The collection took a dramatic turn with tulle creations in vibrant colors like canary yellow and black and white.
Gordon brought the grandeur of Habsburg Vienna to life through sumptuous black velvet and taffeta gowns and jackets embroidered in gold. In his program notes, he expressed his intention to transform the Carolina Herrera woman into a modern Empress, celebrating her unwavering appreciation for beauty and glamour. Unlike the tragic figure of Empress Sissi, Gordon’s modern Empress is meant to lead a more fulfilling life.
On the other hand, Palomo Spain presented a powerful commentary on the challenges faced by transgender individuals in America. Against the backdrop of restrictive laws in Florida that suppress discussions of LGBTQ issues and rights, designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo showcased young men trying on their mothers’ clothes. Though not explicitly political, the show made a poignant statement.
The collection was presented in a Chelsea art gallery accompanied by the sounds of medieval lutes and guitars. Models wore silk bloomers, baby caps, cotton blouses, jacquard frocks, and oversized coats made from unconventional materials like seafoam sequins and feathers. Palomo’s designs defy gender norms and celebrate individuality, including pieces like the mortar-shaped hat made from padded striped cotton.
While eccentricity was prevalent throughout the collection, Palomo also featured more wearable pieces such as cool satin puffers, voluminous pea-coats with large collars, and oversized trenches. The designer’s collaboration with Puma continued with the introduction of new sneakers in vibrant colors. Leather boots and shoes finished with rolled leather straps added a touch of sophistication.
Palomo Spain’s collection is a celebration of freedom and a call to live in a world where individuals can embrace their true selves. Despite the current political climate in America, characterized by violence and oppression, Palomo’s clothes serve as a symbol of empowerment and self-expression.
On Day 4 of NYFW, Carolina Herrera and Palomo Spain showcased their distinct visions, highlighting the influence of Hispanic culture and exploring themes of empowerment and self-expression. These collections demonstrate that fashion goes beyond mere garments, serving as a means to convey messages and make societal commentaries.
Links:
1. New York Fashion Week – The New York Times
2. Fashion Shows – Vogue
