Paris Haute Couture Week was a spectacular event that showcased the creative visions of four renowned couturiers. Olivier Rousteing stole the show with his tribute to Jean-Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela wowed the audience with a cinematic western-themed display, Elie Saab transported viewers into a world of fantasy, and Viktor & Rolf left everyone in awe with their innovative conceptual fashion.
Rousteing’s collection for Jean-Paul Gaultier was a true artistic achievement. As the third designer to create a couture collection for the fashion house, Rousteing paid homage to Gaultier while infusing his own unique style. The collection featured punk-inspired elements, Maasai imagery, and sailor-inspired looks, all of which captured the essence of Gaultier’s iconic designs. The show opened with Aztec cyber punks wearing patchwork outfits, Breton fisherman tops, and safari-inspired prints. Rousteing also incorporated Gaultier’s Le Male perfume bottle and Madonna cone bustier into the collection, adding a touch of nostalgia. With celebrities like Ashley Scott, Lucien Laviscount, and Neymar Jr in attendance, the show received resounding applause. The finale, featuring Gaultier and Rousteing together, left the Puig family, the owners of the fashion house, delighted.
Maison Margiela’s display at the Théâtre National de Chaillot was nothing short of a cinematic experience. Creative director John Galliano, known for his theatrical approach, created an immersive multimedia show that drew inspiration from western films. The collection featured outlaws in chopped-up dusters, cowgirls in bouffant ball gowns, and various other unconventional outfits. Though the show received thunderous applause, some critics felt that it didn’t fully showcase Galliano’s brilliance or the essence of Maison Margiela.
Elie Saab’s show was a magical journey into fantasy. The collection opened with stunning feathered gowns and cloaks, showcasing Saab’s impeccable craftsmanship. It also marked Saab’s debut into menswear, with the designer himself donning exquisite brocade suits and tuxedos. The collection then transitioned into dazzling sequined gowns, further solidifying Saab’s reputation as a master of glamorous eveningwear. The audience responded with enthusiastic applause, recognizing Saab’s talent and artistry.
Viktor & Rolf, known for their avant-garde approach to fashion, presented a collection that pushed boundaries and defied expectations. Every look in the collection was uniquely morphable, featuring oversized proportions, exaggerated collars, and dramatic shoulders. Tuxedos, fracks, and Wall Street suits were reimagined with collars that undulated and bobbed. The models, with chignons or “boobs,” along with rouged lips and aviator sunglasses, further added to the unconventional aesthetic. The designers themselves took part in the show, partially undressing one model and transforming each look by adjusting back stays and interior straps. The collection was praised for its conceptual and clever designs, highlighting Viktor & Rolf’s expertise in pushing the boundaries of fashion.
Paris Haute Couture Week was a dazzling display of individuality and artistic expression. Each couturier presented their distinct vision, captivating the audience and earning applause throughout the day. It served as a reminder of the limitless creativity and innovation that defines haute couture.
Useful links:
1. Vogue: Paris Haute Couture AW21.
2. Harper’s Bazaar: The Best Looks from Paris Haute Couture Week.
