The Paris Couture week commenced on a sunny Monday in the fashion capital, showcasing breathtaking and innovative shows by Schiaparelli and Iris van Herpen. Schiaparelli’s presentation was held at the Decorative Arts Museum of the Louvre, coinciding with the launch of a major retrospective dedicated to the brand’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli. The designer, Daniel Roseberry, introduced a playful evolution of the house’s iconic codes and archives, incorporating elements such as black grape embroidery, corsets, low-cut gowns, and transparent lace bras.
The highlight of the collection was the emphasis on accessories and embroidery. The ensembles dazzled with metal wheat sheathes, sculptural ears, and pearl grapes, showcasing the brand’s attention to intricate detailing and hyper sophistication. Although there were occasional missteps, like a baroque pearl cocktail dress with dangling black velvet pompons, Roseberry’s show stood as a triumph, solidifying Schiaparelli’s position in the elite world of couture. The show attracted the attention of celebrities and industry insiders alike, thanks to its grand and glamorous finale. Hand-painted tulips and metal flowers bloomed from black velvet dresses and lilac corsets, adding a touch of playfulness and elegance. The models were adorned with golden doves, representing the house’s desire for more romance and tenderness.
Reflecting on his design process, Roseberry confessed to initially hesitating in drawing too heavily from Elsa’s work. However, delving into her archives made him realize the profound depth and significance of her contributions to the fashion industry.
On the other hand, Iris van Herpen presented an awe-inspiring collection inspired by Greek myths and advanced technology. The designer seamlessly merged Ovid’s poem, Metamorphoses, with her creations, fusing unexpected technological materials with organic shapes. One remarkable innovation was the development of a new couture material made from coco bean husks, crafted in collaboration with a vegan ice cream project by Magnum. Van Herpen’s technical prowess was showcased in stunning pieces like a dress constructed from glass organza and an Arachne bodice dress created with white poly-silk threads that gracefully hung in front of the torso. The collection also featured alternative leather bustiers adorned with metallic lilac laser-cut straps.
In a time when many fashion brands are embracing the metaverse and virtual world, van Herpen’s collection offered a refreshing perspective on true fashion luxury. It reminded the industry that live fashion experiences, like great sex, cannot be replicated in virtual environments. This bold statement celebrated the authenticity and unique charm of couture, elevating it to a realm beyond virtual replication.
Useful links:
1. Schiaparelli Fall 2022 Couture Collection
2. Iris van Herpen Fall 2022 Couture Collection
