The second day of Milan Fashion Week was a spectacle of fashion, featuring the exceptional collections of Calcaterra, Emporio Armani, and MM6. Each fashion house brought a unique interpretation of timeless feminine classics, highlighting the artistry, quality, and desirability of their designs.
Calcaterra, renowned for its refined style, unveiled a powerful collection characterized by clean lines and a natural color palette. The collection showcased voluminous wool coats with wide collars that delicately embraced the body, accompanied by cozy fringed scarves in coordinating colors. The coats had a flared silhouette at the back, resembling mini capes, adding a touch of drama. The designer incorporated the movement of waves into the hemlines of tops and asymmetrical mini-skirts, infusing a sense of playfulness. The monochrome looks predominantly consisted of soft colors like white, cream, and ivory, with occasional pops of khaki, sage green, lacquered red, or black. The collection exuded comfort and strength through the use of tactile materials such as curly wool, silk, cotton crepe, gabardine, and exquisite leathers. Botanical elements, such as flowing locks of hair adding volume to dresses and handcrafted leaf-shaped jewelry made of brass, further emphasized the collection’s connection to nature.
MM6 Maison Margiela took a stylistic shift this season, paying homage to its founder Martin Margiela. The collection showcased a playful approach, featuring garments with multiple uses that could be endlessly recomposed, akin to a puzzle. At first glance, the looks exuded a casual coolness, reflecting a youthful and slightly grungy aesthetic with denim, jackets, baggy trousers, and distressed jumpers. However, upon closer inspection, unexpected details and clever constructions were revealed, showcasing the brand’s signature deconstructive approach. The models underwent visible changes backstage, as the team in gray coats assisted in altering the looks, transforming them into entirely different outfits. Illusions were also incorporated into the collection, such as a sleeveless coat composed solely of its lining at the top, which was restored to its original form by adding a jacket made from the same wool. MM6 experimented with layered designs, combining different materials and seamlessly blending front and back elements. The collection epitomized Margiela’s philosophy that fashion is not solely about clothing but encompasses an attitude and a playful game.
Emporio Armani injected a festive atmosphere onto the runway, with models radiating lightness and nonchalance. The collection featured youthful and dynamic looks that exuded elegance and playfulness, complemented by berets or bowler hats as accessories. Skirts, dresses, and shorts were worn above the knee, and fuchsia pink added a burst of color to gray flannel suits. The Emporio girl presented a fusion of innocence and sophistication, alternating between schoolgirl-inspired ensembles with white blouses, prominent buttons, and black bows, and Lady Armani looks consisting of luxurious shimmering velvet suits. Departing from classic sobriety, the collection incorporated extravagant accessories, including thigh-high boots, pearl necklaces, and pink Plexiglas bracelets. For eveningwear, short dresses adorned with colorful sequins were perfect for a night of celebration.
The second day of Milan Fashion Week showcased the diversity and creativity within the fashion industry. From Calcaterra’s elegant and powerful designs to MM6’s playful deconstruction and Emporio Armani’s youthful yet sophisticated aesthetic, each collection offered a fresh perspective on fashion. Milan continues to solidify its position as a global fashion capital, inspiring designers and fashion enthusiasts alike with its rich history and innovative spirit.
Useful links:
1. Calcaterra Collection
2. MM6 Collection
