London Fashion Week presented a plethora of powerful fashion shows, particularly from young women designers who impressed with their unique visions and styles. Nensi Dojaka and Molly Goddard were among the standout designers, captivating the audience with their striking fashion manifestos. On the other hand, Eudon Choi and Eftychia embraced a more put-together and refined look for their collections.
Nensi Dojaka, the recent winner of the prestigious LVMH Prize, kicked off the day with a concise and cool collection that showcased her impeccable tailoring skills. Her use of a monochromatic palette consisting of black, flesh, dark rose, and rust exuded a sense of polish and precision. Unlike her previous show, where she primarily presented looks she had already used to win the prize, this collection introduced fresh and exciting designs. Dojaka displayed her mastery of tailoring through sleek suits and blazers, featuring refined semi-sheer bustiers as accents. Furthermore, she emphasized inclusivity by casting plus-sized models who confidently strutted down the runway in holed stretch lycra cocktails and mesh dresses. The highlight of Dojaka’s collection was her lingerie dresses, which achieved the perfect balance between sexiness and sophistication.
Molly Goddard, known for her cool eccentricity, brought a nostalgic touch to her collection by drawing inspiration from the vibrant London markets of the 80s and 90s. Her designs were heavily influenced by her mother’s best friend, who embodied a unique blend of Marilyn Monroe and Mick Jones. The collection showcased a glamorous display of rock ‘n’ roll attitude, with voluminous tulle gowns paired with army surplus jackets and exquisite knits. A standout feature of Goddard’s collection was the bodycon flamenco dresses adorned with puckered tulle from the waist down. Her attention to detail was evident in the prints she incorporated, including whimsical fairy tales and floral rose patterns. The overall look was completed with tulle-covered bags and bowling sneakers.
Eudon Choi found inspiration in the works of iconic film director Michelangelo Antonioni for his collection. Presented in the historic Charterhouse, his designs resonated with Antonioni’s exploration of existentialist angst. The collection began with an all-red ensemble, featuring oversized coats, silk ensembles, and satin cocktail dresses in various shades of crimson. Choi displayed his impeccable taste by cleverly combining ribbed woolen jumpers with raffia and frayed cotton mini-skirts or khaki pants. The collection exuded confidence and sophistication, further enhanced by the collaboration with Louis Quatorze in creating sculptural bags in abstract shapes.
Eftychia, known for her stylish office workwear, focused on soft and somber tailoring for the current season. Designer Eftychia Karamolegkou introduced a twist to the classic tuxedo, incorporating velvet trim and stripes, often seen down the front pleat. Her expertise in tailoring shone through in the flattering pantsuits crafted from fine wools. Notably, she utilized felty wool in finely shaped funnel neck boleros, adding a unique touch to the collection. The color palette primarily consisted of anthracite, mud, and steely gray, with the addition of a few elegant velvet dresses for evening wear. Eftychia’s collection provided polished dressing options for the professional woman, perfectly aligning with the current mood in London.
In conclusion, London Fashion Week showcased a diverse range of talents and styles. From Nensi Dojaka’s precise tailoring to Molly Goddard’s eccentric nostalgia, Eudon Choi’s homage to Antonioni, and Eftychia’s refined workwear, each designer offered a unique perspective on fashion. The shows were a true testament to the creativity and innovation present within the London fashion scene, leaving audiences excited for the future of fashion.
Useful links:
1. London Fashion Week
2. LVMH Prize
