Hermès and Valentino, two iconic fashion brands, recently unveiled their latest menswear collections, showcasing distinct and contrasting visions. Despite their differences, both brands shared a common objective of redefining sartorial codes and pushing boundaries within the realm of men’s fashion.
Hermès, renowned for its unwavering consistency and meticulous attention to detail, presented a menswear show that exuded a sense of class, modernity, and a touch of moodiness. With Véronique Nichanian at the helm of the menswear designs for over three decades, Hermès has successfully maintained its signature style while constantly reinventing itself. One of the standout pieces in Nichanian’s collection was the newly introduced blouson, a timeless staple for the French man. This blouson featured vertically slanted zip pockets, piped trim, and a roll collar, seamlessly blending scientific precision with artisanal craftsmanship.
Nichanian’s collection played with silhouettes and proportions, introducing short pea coats and jackets paired with narrow streamlined trousers. The designer also experimented with new shapes and volumes through angled cuts, cut-outs, and unexpected design elements. Notably, herringbone coats with dropped breast pockets and six-button blousons with single vertical flaps created a visual intrigue. To add a luxurious touch, semitransparent materials like see-through nylon and mesh were incorporated into the collection. Nichanian’s expert use of materials, including dipped lambskin, stirrup leather, deerskin flannel, cashmere, and alpaca, further elevated the collection. The color palette, with shades like khaki, basalt, charcoal, anise, petroleum blue, heather, pumpkin, crocus, silex, and peat, evoked a moody yet melodic ambiance. With every detail meticulously considered, Nichanian once again established herself as the epitome of sophistication and elegance in the French fashion scene.
Valentino, under the creative direction of Pierpaolo Piccioli, presented a collection that appealed to both gentle men and gentlemen. The show exuded a romantic atmosphere, heightened by the presence of beautifully voiced female singers. The collection predominantly focused on subtle shades, moderately curving volumes, and a contemporary sense of chic. Couture ideas were brought to life through the implementation of Altorilievo, a technique that created intricate patterns on the shoulder and back areas of the garments. Additionally, mythological figures were artfully translated into tailored clothes using the intarsia technique, further enhancing the collection’s artistic appeal.
One of Piccioli’s favorite designs, the caban, took center stage in the collection. Notably, an anthracite mohair wool version cleverly imitated the appearance of astrakhan. The collection also featured a striking turquoise blue color, which was showcased in sequined clubbing cabans and roll neck cashmere sweaters. Design choices in the collection, such as slitted coats and wide-leg pants that ended above the ankle, left some viewers perplexed. However, the overall mood of the collection was dark and print-free, creating a cohesive aesthetic.
Despite the excellence of the designs, the choice of venue for Valentino’s show, the Musée de la Monnaie, posed some challenges due to its series of rooms with lowering ceilings and a twisting catwalk. This lack of focus resulted in several audience members leaving before Piccioli finished his bow. Nevertheless, the collection undeniably showcased noble and elegant clothes, albeit falling slightly short of making a significant fashion statement.
It is worth mentioning that Piccioli would go on to present a Valentino haute collection at the brand’s Paris headquarters later in the week. It is anticipated that he may have saved his finest designs for this event. Both Hermès and Valentino presented contrasting yet captivating visions of menswear, contributing to the ongoing evolution of men’s fashion.
Useful links:
1. Hermès Official Website
2. Valentino Official Website
