Hermès and Elie Saab: Contrasting Visions of Elegance and Playfulness

On a bustling Saturday in Paris, two renowned fashion houses, Hermès and Elie Saab, captivated audiences with their latest collections. The shows epitomized the distinct visions of the brands, with Hermès highlighting discreet elegance and Elie Saab aiming to dazzle with his designs.

Hermès, known for its understated luxury, took inspiration from different hair colors for their collection. Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski expertly explored the autumnal color palette, resulting in a monochromatic showcase. Departing from their usual aesthetic, the runway was set in a vibrant orange box, adding an element of surprise. Each look followed the color conformity, creating a cohesive and harmonious atmosphere. The collection offered versatility, catering to both leisurely walks in the forest and glamorous shopping trips.

The highlight of Vanhee-Cybulski’s collection was the eveningwear, drawing inspiration from 1920s designers such as Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet. Metallic silk was incorporated into the designs, presenting exquisite cuts and finishes. Black models exuded grace as they walked the runway in plissé fabrics and Grecian goddess silhouettes. Rich hues of russet, mud, oak, elm, and deep purple made appearances, adorning cashmere tunics, redingotes, knit dresses, and elongated cardigans. Notably, the cable knits resembled braided hair, symbolizing a sense of post-pandemic polish. Staying true to their heritage in saddle-making, Hermès showcased unique shearlings resembling wild fur, impeccably tailored leather shirts, and tunics. The showstopper was a suede thigh boot with a pyramid heel that is destined to become a best-seller.

Vanhee-Cybulski spoke about her fascination with the complexity and symbolism of women’s hair, which served as the inspiration behind the collection. She even sent hair samples to fabric mills to replicate the intricacy in cashmere garments. Her goal was to challenge wardrobe stereotypes by transforming a blanket coat into knitwear that embraces and envelops the wearer. The collection as a whole exuded introverted elegance, with the designer herself sporting a black leather jacket and red boots, showcasing a youthful attitude.

In contrast, Elie Saab delivered a show filled with tailoring expertise and floral sequins. The runway show at the Palais de Tokyo beautifully captured the brand’s energy and excitement. This is an exciting time for the house of Saab, as they recently launched a new perfume, Elixir, and opened a boutique in Milan. The collection featured elements reminiscent of Versace, embracing naughty black lace, glitter, and sharply tailored suits. Saab’s signature style was evident with black puffers, blazers, and chiffon cocktails adorned with Levantine flowers. Thigh-high boots completed the runway looks, with Saab’s wife, Claudine, even sporting a pair.

When asked about his inspiration, Saab simply mentioned that he had a beautiful woman in mind while designing the collection. Fashion influencers such as Olivia Palermo, Caro Daur, and Helena Bordon embraced Saab’s designs, further confirming their appeal. The collection exuded a sense of fun and playfulness, providing a refreshing contrast to the more serious nature of Hermès.

In summary, Saturday in Paris brought forth the unique visions of Hermès and Elie Saab. Hermès focused on monochromatic elegance, drawing inspiration from hair colors and infusing versatility into their designs. On the other hand, Elie Saab’s collection showcased tailoring expertise and floral embellishments, exuding a sense of fun and playfulness. Both fashion houses successfully catered to the desires of their discerning clientele, each with their own distinct style and allure.

Useful Links:
– [Hermès official website](https://www.hermes.com/)
– [Elie Saab official website](https://www.eliesaab.com/)

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