The house of Helmut Lang has been facing a downward spiral ever since its iconic designer, Helmut Lang himself, departed. However, fashion enthusiasts were eagerly awaiting Peter Do’s debut collection for the brand, hoping for a resurgence. Sadly, the collection failed to meet expectations and appeared as nothing more than a poor imitation of Lang’s legendary style. Lacking the subversive edge and unexpected materials that were once synonymous with Lang’s designs, the collection inspired by American automobile culture falls short and fails to capture the essence of the brand.
It’s hard to fathom that just twenty years ago, Helmut Lang was considered the epitome of fashion. People from around the world would travel across the Atlantic just to catch a glimpse of Lang’s runway show during New York Fashion Week. The anticipation leading up to the show seemed promising, with gigantic graphic texts reminiscent of Lang’s previous collaborations with artist Jenny Holzer displayed on the catwalk. Furthermore, writer Ocean Vuong’s compelling text was read aloud, heightening the excitement. Unfortunately, Do’s collection heavily relies on references to Lang’s signature looks, such as rigid suits, long redingotes, and denim parkas. The precision and innovation that once characterized Lang’s designs are noticeably absent, resulting in a lackluster show.
Since Helmut Lang’s retirement in 2005, the brand has struggled under the guidance of multiple creative directors and has experienced years of financial losses. It appears that Lang’s legacy has been plagued by misfortune and unable to reclaim its former glory.
On a positive note, Carla Pierini, a talented young designer from Venezuela, emerged as the victor in the 2023 Supima Design Competition. Her collection pays homage to her native country, showcasing porcelain blue hues and exquisite craftsmanship. Pierini impresses the judges with her skills in tie-dye techniques, acid dyeing, fabric puckering, and couture shapes. Her five looks shine among the finalists, securing her the $10,000 prize and earning her recognition in the industry. The competition highlights the work of eight finalists from esteemed fashion schools such as Drexel University, Academy of Art University, and Fashion Institute of Technology.
Pierini graciously acknowledges her fellow students at Drexel, emphasizing that her accomplishment is a collective effort. She spent months dedicated to her collection, seldom leaving the studio. Pierini attributes her success to the support of her friends and believes that without them, none of this would have been possible.
Celebrating its 16th year, the Supima Design Competition challenges emerging designers to showcase their creativity using various types of Supima fabrics. This unique format allows designers to experiment with shirting, twill, denim, jersey, and velveteen. The finalists are mentored by acclaimed fashion designer Bibhu Mohapatra, who offers guidance and advice throughout the competition. The distinguished judging panel, led by veteran designer Jeremy Scott, comprises industry experts, editors, and stylists.
Carla Pierini’s victory at the Supima Design Competition is a testament to her talent and potential. As she embarks on her fashion career, she joins the ranks of previous competition winners who have gone on to achieve tremendous success in the industry.
Useful links:
1. Supima
2. Drexel University Fashion Program
