On September 22nd, designer Sabato de Sarno will present his first collection for Gucci during Milan Fashion Week. With his appointment in January, de Sarno bears the responsibility of revitalizing the desirability of the renowned Italian Maison.
Gucci, under new corporate and artistic leadership, is unveiling its highly anticipated collection today, marking a strategic milestone for the brand. In recent years, the Kering-owned flagship has experienced significant expansion and innovation, with ventures into various sectors such as high jewelry, high perfume, beauty, and even Web3. However, the brand has faced challenges, including the impact of China’s zero-Covid policy and the departure of creative director Alessandro Michele in November. As a result, Gucci’s 2022 turnover reached €10.5 billion, reflecting modest growth of just 1% compared to the previous year. François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, has acknowledged that this performance falls short of the brand’s ambitions and potential.
With the departure of Alessandro Michele, who championed flamboyance and opulence, the question arises: how can Gucci transition to a new era? Sabato de Sarno, who has previously worked at esteemed fashion houses such as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and Valentino, seems poised to establish Gucci in the era of Quiet Luxury.
While this approach may appear starkly different from the extravagant aesthetic of recent years, it draws inspiration from Gucci’s minimalist aesthetic of the 2000s. The choice of model Daria Werbowy, a longtime friend of de Sarno and muse of designer Phoebe Philo, further exemplifies this discreet luxury approach.
Gucci’s latest runway show, titled “Ancora,” serves as the brand’s foray into a new creative dynamic. In line with this shift, the brand has deleted its entire Instagram history, signaling a fresh start. This new positioning aligns with Kering’s aspirations to establish Gucci in the flourishing ultra-luxury market. Perhaps, we can anticipate a low-key Gucci experience that caters to discerning clients in their new VIP lounges. The verdict on Gucci’s new direction will be revealed on the runway at 3 pm.
Useful links:
1. Gucci Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection
2. Gucci Deletes Instagram History
