Gucci bid farewell to the Alessandro Michele era in a remarkable fashion by unveiling a minimalist and chic men’s collection for autumn-winter 2023/24 during Milan Fashion Week. The collection marks a significant departure from Michele’s signature prints and extravagant designs, signaling a shift towards a more linear and simpler silhouette with a rock spirit. This move towards minimalism aligns with the rising trend of artisanal luxury, which has gained immense popularity among high-end consumers. Bottega Veneta, another brand under the Kering group, has also embraced this aesthetic and played a pivotal role in its popularity.
The collection reinterprets classic men’s clothing with a contemporary twist, incorporating oversized volumes to create a desirable aesthetic. The new Gucci man is portrayed as effortlessly cool, sporting a woolen cap, a simple white tee-shirt, or a loose knit paired with flowing trousers. Accessories play a significant role in the collection, featuring large, slightly vintage-inspired bags with clean designs and a variety of colors. Additionally, Gucci showcased new models of heeled shoes and quilted motorbike boots in a musketeer style, providing a diverse range of footwear options.
The overall ambiance of the show is enhanced by the decor and music. Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog trio delivered live jazz-rock improvisations as the models walked the runway, lit up by changing colors. The designs displayed on the runway include knit suits, maxi coats, baggy jackets, jeans, and metal-buttoned or tweed coats dyed in a soft palette of lavender, tangerine, and sage. Unexpected elements, such as long skirts with slits and detachable trousers transforming into Bermuda shorts, contribute to the collection’s innovation and versatility.
Despite the noticeable shift in style, this collection is considered transitional as Gucci awaits the appointment of a new creative director who will redefine the brand’s direction. Speculations are circulating concerning potential successors, which include Remo Macco, recently appointed as the studio director, Davide Renne, and Marco Maria Lombardi, the design director for women’s ready-to-wear. Daniel Roseberry, the current creative director of Schiaparelli, is also frequently mentioned as a potential outsider to take over the reins of Gucci.
While the runway buzzes with excitement about the collection, rumors are also swirling around the possible departure of Gucci’s CEO, Marco Bizzarri. Bizzarri, who appeared alongside François-Henri Pinault, the CEO of Kering, at the show, exuded confidence and optimism despite the uncertainty. As the industry eagerly awaits updates on Gucci’s future creative direction, this collection symbolizes the end of the Alessandro Michele era and hints at a promising new chapter in the brand’s story.
Useful Links:
1. Vogue – Gucci Men’s Collection Autumn-Winter 2023/24
2. Business of Fashion – Potential Successors to Alessandro Michele at Gucci
