Gucci and Sportmax, two renowned fashion brands in Milan, made a splash on the third day of Milan Fashion Week with their daring and unconventional Spring/Summer 2023 collections. Both designers delved into the concept of “otherness,” delving into the exploration of identity and the impact of sensations on how we perceive others.
Alessandro Michele, the creative mind behind Gucci, presented a fascinating fashion show titled “Twinsburg.” The theme of uniqueness and differences was evident from the show’s title and teaser. The runway was set inside a dark metallic screened box, adorned with repeated portraits. On the other side of the wall, a parallel show took place in an identical hall. As the show came to an end, the rows of portraits rose like a curtain, revealing another set of guests facing the first, creating an intriguing reflection-like effect.
The show truly began when each model joined their twin, dressed in identical outfits, and walked hand-in-hand down the runway. This created an eerie feeling, blurring the line between reality and reflection. The show featured a total of 68 pairs of twins, with 50 women and 18 men, providing Michele with an opportunity to expand Gucci’s repertoire. Classic men’s suits received a mischievous twist with mid-thigh cut trouser legs and suspenders tied to chic briefs adorned with the Gucci logo. The collection also showcased denim dungarees with the word “Fuori!!!” (meaning “outside” or “off the wall” in Italian), incorporating wrenches and bolts as directional print patterns. Contrasting elements were also prominent, such as ruffled dresses paired with leopard-print tights and lizard skin boots, and blazers embellished with crystals paired with large-check tweed trousers. Oriental influences could be seen in the collection as well, with Chinese Qipao dresses, golden kimono blouses, and belly dancer-style pearl accessories.
Sportmax, on the other hand, took a different approach by basing their collection on experiments from the 1920s to understand the shape of sounds. This concept was expanded upon to create a collection that centered around visual and tactile sensations. The garments were intentionally deconstructed and, at times, appeared unfinished. The initial looks featured patchwork satin petticoats with slipping straps that revealed lace lingerie beneath. Shimmering fabrics were draped haphazardly to create long skirts and train gowns with voluminous backs. Wrap-around skirts with unstitched hems created layered millefeuille-like looks, and arm drapes resembled wings. The collection had a fluidity to it, with sleeves stretching along the body and maxi skirts billowing on the ground. The men’s suits were intentionally oversized, with trousers corkscrewing around the ankles. Thigh-high boots in golden satin added a touch of hippie, glam, and futuristic vibes to the collection. Shiny fabrics and skin-tight vinyl knitwear contributed to the range of sensations, along with a color palette that transitioned from pastels to vibrant acidic hues.
Gucci and Sportmax undoubtedly left a significant impact with their innovative and thought-provoking collections at Milan Fashion Week. These shows challenged the norms of conventional fashion and explored the boundaries of identity and perception, leaving the fashion world eager and excited for what the next season holds.
Useful links:
– Gucci Spring/Summer 2023 Collection Review
– Sportmax Spring/Summer 2023 Collection Review
